Update, 18 October 2008: I am now using pure 151-proof Everclear to refill my cleaner cartridges. I add no perfume, no lubrication. It works great. See the comments for more on this topic.
Update 2, 16 January 2010: My charger/cleaner stopped working, so I threw it away. The shaver still works. I can charge it by plugging it in, and I can clean it by running it under the tap. I should have tried this at the beginning.
You love your new shaver, but you can’t stand the idea of paying $6 apiece for those little (non-recyclable) refills. And you know that all they contain (besides a trace of perfume you don’t need) is 170 ml of SD alcohol 40-B, which is just denatured alcohol, which costs just $6 a quart at any hardware store. So, can’t you refill your own refills? Yes, but you have to be careful.
- Denatured alcohol is highly flammable. Plus, the flame tends to be invisible. Keep away from flames and sparks.
- Denatured alcohol is poisonous. Keep away from children.
- Ingredients vary between brands — see below.
“Denatured” is a old-fashioned term meaning that the alcohol’s natural drinkability has been removed. Of course that’s not a material substance or attribute, and therefore cannot be subtracted. Instead, other things are added: usually methyl alcohol (the poison kind), a little Bitrex — and, unfortunately, various other things, depending on the brewmaster’s personal style. Some brands have acetone, benzene, or toluene in them (for stronger solvent effect) and you totally don’t want any of those things near your face. This means that many or most of the products out there labeled “denatured alcohol” are not acceptable for this project.
But, since I had several much more pressing things to do, I reviewed all the relevant Material Safety Data Sheets I could find. Klean-Strip S-L-X Denatured Alcohol, made by W.M. Barr & Co., is listed as 50% ethyl alcohol, ~49% methyl alcohol, and ~1% methyl isobutyl ketone. Absolutely not drinkable, but not nearly as toxic as some of the others. I scored some at Home Depot.
Here’s how to refill your own Pulsonic cleaning cartridges. First, of course, buy a quart of the right kind of denatured alcohol.
- Push the surprisingly-difficult-to-find release button. Pull out the used cartridge. Don’t throw it away!!!1!!
- There will still be some fluid in it. There will also be a sludge of cut-off whiskers stuck in the paper filter on the bottom. Use the left-over fluid to rinse out this “chad”: cover the two holes with your thumbs; shake vigorously; pour into a sink or toilet. Repeat with some fresh alcohol if the thing still seems gross — but, heck, it doesn’t have to be clean as a whistle.
- Fill the cartridge with fresh alcohol and pop it back into the base unit.
You’re done! You’ve saved money and protected Mother Nature from excess plastic! Skip shaving for a few days. You’ve earned it.
YASHWATA 
The Braun solution has a little bit of lubricant. It’s NOT just denatured alcohol (rather broad category to begin with, ranging from horrifically toxic to merely undrinkable). This post (and blog in general) is what you call “willful ignorance”. I give you credit for admitting you murdered your cleaning station after only two years. There’s probably a Braun engineer out there who is stunned that Americans are able to operate a keyboard, confidently spout strong opinions, and are generally full of themselves – all the while being so staggeringly ignorant. Your cleaning station would have lasted longer if you had added lubricity to your alcohol, and the blades would maintain a better cutting edge. Just because you don’t “notice” doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. Lubricants reduce friction.
However, anyone blindly following your advice is a fool, and I like watching fools get what they deserve – so in a fashion I find it comical. Keep up the good work, even if it is accidental.
>>After about 6 months of use I started to notice some peeling on the paint in the back side of the shaver. Anyone else found this?<<
Me too – but I think it's to do with the friction generated by the vibration rather than what solution is used.
This is exactly what I had been looking for, after reading each and every comment on this page, and confusing myself over and over again – took me all afternoon to read through the cotton-picking thing! Yashwata, finally spilled the beans – “Finally: As I found out by accident, you don’t need the charger and cleaner at all. The shaver works fine by itself. You do have to plug it into the wall occasionally, but one charge is good for dozens of shaves. To clean it, open the head and spray water on it. That big ugly cleaner thing with its buzzing motor and flashing lights — consider discarding it.”
Mark, Methyl Hydrate is DEADLY, evidenced by the skull on the container!
Hmmm…how does denaturing isopropyl alcohol prevent someone from drinking it? Could it be that if the dude drinks denatured alcohol, he will be drinking it only once. Once he is dead, you would have prevented him from drinking it again?
Ville, this is what Google said: Rubbing alcohol, USP / Surgical spirit, B.P. is a liquid prepared and used primarily for topical application. It is prepared from a special denatured alcohol solution and contains approximately 70 percent by volume of pure, concentrated ethanol (ethyl alcohol) or isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol).
So, let us not confuse the situation by equating rubbing alcohol to isopropyl alcohol.
*SD-Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.) – Why on Earth is Braun using denatured alcohol if it has been found to be dangerous?
Okay, I don;t care about smell, in which case, do I need the lemon oil? Also, what is the final verdict? Denatured or not?
Interesting. I have been using Remington shavers (the only one that attacks my thick beard) since 1975. I am still using one as my main shaver. I have been manually cleaning it by running water on the screens and cutter for decades. No special solution or anything. I keep my Braun as a backup. I do see the Braun tells me my shaver is “extremely” dirty only after one use! I take that with a pinch of salt. I have been using a vacuum cleaner (at the slowest speed) to take out the hairs. Who needs cleaning solution?
Hi. Is it a good idea to use 70% pure ethanol or 70% alcohol with 0.5% chlorhexidine gluconate? Thanks
Hi. Is it a good idea to use 70% ethanol or 70% alcohol with 0.5% chlorhexidine gluconate? Thanks
To give you an idea I am still using the same blade after roughly two years from replacement with still perfect results and normal comfort level. The first one I changed might have lasted a little longer but who knows. In my a case it really does not seem to matter. If you change the blades every three months it should really not matter.
The reduced performance is hard to notice since the day-to-day change would be imperceptible. While the difference builds slowly over time your face can become conditioned to the shave. I suspect that if you could compare identical razors that have had equal use, with one cleaned without a lubricant and the other cleaned with one over 3 months, you would notice the difference in the shave.
I have been using 91% isopropyl alcohol for years and have not noticed any reduced performance or the need to replace the foil and cutter more quickly.
The reason why it reads empty or low is very likely because of low electrical conductivity of solution.
Measuring resistance in the solution with two probes (maintaining same area contact) for filling the cartridge with 170ml 91% isopropyl alcohol and then adding 4 drops of 0.65% volume table salt solution yields 2.5Mohm and 0.7Mohm, respectively.
Adding the saline solution will make the device read full again.
So, just add alcohol, a few drops of salted water, a little perfume if you wish and that is all there is to it.
I have never been using any lubricant and have not noticed any early degradation whatsoever.
The gauge showing empty when the cartridge is full is probably caused by a miscalibrated conductivity sensor. Try adding a few pinches of salt to the cartridge.
A 60%-70% evaporation rate is crazy. Your seals are shot. Braun used to sell replacement kits, but stopped doing so. The seals can be improved by painting on a little FlexiDip or Plasti Dip. To access the seals, follow the second fix found in this document: http://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/32232410. (The document explains how to fix drainage issues.)
It is worth noting that following any suggestion in this thread that doesn’t include lubricant will eventually lead to reduced performance and the need to replace the foil and cutter more quickly.
This comment is from Organek Living, the manufacturer of a cost effective replacement for Braun Clean & Renew called Shaver Shebang. Thanks to Kawina for mentioning it earlier in this thread. http://www.organekliving.com/shaver-shebang/braun-clean-renew
It reads low or empty because you have the cartridge too full. Leave 1/4″ of space in the top of the cartridge and try it again. Read my post by dspatola on 29 December 2011 for safe ingredients to use.
Don Spatola
I tried making my own solution with no success. Despite my cartridge being full, my fluid gauge read low or empty. So here’s what I did.
REMOVE THE CARTRIDGE AND PUT THE LID BACK ON IT AFTER EVERY CLEANING.
I shave 3-4 times per week and only clean the razor when it get’s to the intensive setting.
I estimate I was losing 60-70% of the solution through evaporation by leaving it in the base of the charger. I have stretched a two pack of cleaning solution almost two years now. I also pour the contents of the “empty” cartridge back into another “empty cartridge and it’s like getting third cartridge for the cost of two.
This was my solution, hope it works for others.
Andre – You probably live in the States? The cartridges are cheap there! Here in Australia I can make up a gallon (5l) of cleaning replacement fluid for the same cost as a double pack of cartridges – that lasts probably a little more than two years.
It takes all of 2 minutes to make the mixture, about a minute to clean and refill a cartridge each time it needs it. I’m retired so time isn’t something I worry about, but in my previous life a minute or two a month wasn’t a great drain on my time in this world!
The satisfaction of successful DIY far outweighs other considerations, anyway.
This was a most entertaining thread and I enjoyed it immensely! I loved the post about how the foil disintegrated in barbicide. That was priceless. The post about using windshield wiper cleaner fluid was also good for a laugh. I have to agree with the guy that questioned anyone who would spend 200+ on a razor and be too cheap to spend 6 bucks to clean it. You’ll never believe what I have been using on mine…Braun Clean & Renew! What do you know, it works like a charm. Who would have thought? I travel frequently and I brush the head out when it gets dirty. When I come home I run it through a full cycle maybe once a week. I have been using the current cartridge for 5 months and my razor runs like new. My time is valuable as I have a limited amount granted to me in this life. Why would I choose to waste it rinsing out cartridges and trying to perfect a formula that costs me less than a dollar a month??? No thanks, I will spend my time relaxing and enjoying the moment with family and friends.
I’ve just been using the 70% wintergreen from CVS. Already has glycerin in it. No mixing of anything needed
For those of you that are worried about safety on you skin, don’t worry, Braun isn’t! Try spilling some of the original fluid on a painted surface – it’s an excellent paint remover.
I use a solution of rubbing alcohol and very cheap colone. About 3 to 1. Dosnt
Really matter the colone is mostly alcohol any way. The cost is $2 for 3 mo. $store knockoffs work fine (the compare to…brands)
I’ve just started using a mix of my own made up of about 70% isopropyl alcohol and scent. After about 6 months of use I started to notice some peeling on the paint in the back side of the shaver. Anyone else found this? I’ve found a few reports of the same happening using the braun stuff….
Alcohol does not seem to be important. An inexpensive generic refill – Shaver Shebang – uses glycerine for lubrication(as per Rog below) and other all natural ingredients for cleaning.
Correction – that should of course be eight HUNDRED ml of meths!
I have been refilling for some four months now, using a mixture of about 80ml methylated spirits, 5ml glycerine, 25ml water (in appreciation of the posters who have had trouble with the “levels” sensors and a dash of essential oil to taste.
Absolutely no problems: my shaver is clean as a whistle, lubricated and smells nice.
It’s not just the savings – although they are there – but it seems such a waste to chuck away the refill containers: they are very solidly constructed and will last for many refills.
Update :
In Greece : Alcohol 70% with glycerine & lemon (it is for embrocation )
21 months works perfect.
At Sklavenitis supermarket 1.5 euro for 500ml (costs 1 euro one refill)
the 8995 grow old (the on-off switch do not work well) but
i purchase the 790 cc-4 and i will continue to use the same liquid
(it is better than my old one..)
Your mouthwash is poison!
Click to access RTD20000423AA.pdf
Are you nuts????
Home Depot sells Klean-Strip Green 1 qt. Denatured Alcohol which is 90-100% Ethyl alcohol {Ethanol} according to MSDS. (~$7.50/qt)
I have used mouthwash w/o any problems for 2 weeks. Nice mint smell too.
Great idea, but to justify your description of this as “economical” you’ll have to quantify the cost of all that compressed air versus the cost of liquid refills :~)
I found a very economical way to extend the life of my refills. I use a compressed air can (for computer cleaning) to clean the blade and top every couple days – once a week I use the charger/cleaner and there is NO residue in the cleaner when complete – I remove the cleaner and put the plastic lids back on and store it till next week when I repeat. Sometimes can go two weeks or so depending on dirt level.
does bioethanol for fireplaces work? it says 96% denat ethanol on the bottle..
How about an ultrasonic cleaner? I have one of those I’m thinking just plain distilled water I suppose you could put a little oil for lube during or after cleaning.
I read through pretty much this entire thread but every comment seems to assume that you are using the base station. Unfortunately, my roommate ran off with mine. I think I have a good idea what solution to use but does anybody have a recommendation for how best to run it through the razor head WITHOUT the base station? Thanks!
One more question- do you have to replace the foil & cutter together or can you de-couple them and just replace the cutter if your foil is still good?
Yes – but only in my mouth and on my mouth guard.
anyone try mouthwash?
Back on August 29th 2011 I posted the mix I am using based on tests I did on the original mix. The shaver is used everyday (almost) and has been 100% reliable – not missed a beat. When the cartridge is empty I flush it with hot water, always through the large hole first to back flush then sit it in a warm place to dry (Hot water cupboard works well) for a few weeks.
Hemant – I have never had the cartridge problem you refer to, may be the fine filter screen is a little blocked not allowing the flow between chambers do you back flush it first?
Mr Mike – Haven’t had that problem either (did have it on a Ronson many years ago) I think I was just pressing too hard and wearing out the foil prematurely, as soon as I revised my habits the foil was okay, I actually get a better shave with the lighter touch.
I don’t know if you are using glycerol, but note my earlier posts around August last year.
I must check the dates, it would have been over the recommended time of 18 months since a replaced the head, and they’re not cheap… certainly can’t make those!!
@Alan
You must also see it like hobby, we can save a lot and it’s like an adventure to do some experience. When you do it slowely and think and read a lot about it, the risk for damaging the razor is low.
For some people it is normal to call the right people when they have any kind of problem, for some other people it’s not the first solution.
Hello again. I replied awhile back discussing the various options mentioned here.I had tried what I believed to be the absolute cheapest solution- Barbicide- used to sanitize hospital instruments and barber and hair salon tools. I followed up by not recommending it because the foil/thin metal on the head disintegrated but was not sure why. It scraped my face pretty good. Well, I then went to the rubbing alcohol solution discussed here with a new head. Now the thin metal disintegrated again and got my face pretty good. So, I am not sure if it is the rubbing alcohol or what is going on. Has anyone experienced the head metal dissolving from the replacement solution you are using??????
Please note that I had an issue wherein I filled an empty container with SD alcohol and another with Isopropanol and both would not turn the indicator to green on the base unit. I was baffled, so, figured there must be some triggering mechanism for the light to turn from empty to full. Anyway with it indicating empty it would not clean the shaver. So, I must notify anyone who is trying to fill it that both the small hole and the bigger hole need to be filled. Only some of the refill put into the bigger hole enters the space of the smaller one. After the bigger cavity is full to the brim pour till the smaller cavity also fills to the brim otherwise the indicator will still show empty or half empty. Just thought I should share.
Also, , to give the crummy old internal NiCad batteries best treatment (with their high memory effect) , I’m leaving my Braun shaver off the charge until the red light flashes, and simply blowing clean after each use. Then do the wet wash and full charge. This will keep battery capacity high and it will live longer too. Then take out the “renew” reservoir and re-cap it to stop evaporation, until next wash.
Otherwise, every time you do a wash, the battery gets a top-up, which is eventually deadly to NiCads.
The chemical mix is made by Proctor and Gamble. Here is their MSDS sheet they are required to publish:
Click to access Clean_&_Renew.pdf
It’s amazing people still trying to figure this out. The first 6 months solved the refill issue. After that everything is getting rehashed.
Weird.
That’s why it’s a good idea to replace the container once a year.
120726. My cleaning tank leaked, the fluid damaging the table surface and a calculator that was nearby. It seems that after a few years, the cleaning tank needs to be junked.
In Australia, Methylated Spirits is the commonly named product which is very easily obtained. I’ve been using 1 cup (280ml) with a half teaspoon of Glyserol (or Glyserine) added, which is totally soluble in the “metho”. Glyserol is about $4 for 100ml at the chemist. I throw in 10 drops of Eucalyptus Oil, for the fresh scent, but I think this, with the Glyserol, aids slightly to the lubrication of the cutters and foils, and reduces evaporation too. I’m laughing . . .
Hello, I used Mr Clean Antibacterial Multi-Surfaces cleaner (Active ingredient is Sodium Hydroxide) with lemon scent mixed with 95% ethanol for a while and it looked like it was working fine but now I am only using ethanol (no water added) and it is also working fine, what do you guys think? is Mr clean a bad idea or what?
I just ga to the phamacy and ask for denaturated alcohol (it is the same stuff to desinfect wounds). It comes in 70%. According to phamasist, you just add water to get the 40%.
As a sent I add some drops of aftershave.
According to the ingredients on the label there is some catonic tenside in there. I know it is also inside fabric softner. But can’t find what kind of catonic tenside it is inside the original cartridge. Anyone has an idea?
I’ve also seen a blog where a guy uses household alcohol. It has some isoproponol and some lemon sent in it. But it has 5% methanol… Don’t know if this makes it too toxic. Costs about 2€/liter.
I am using Glycerin to Lubricate. But the razor felt sticky. So I reduced the Glycerin to 1/2 Teaspoon from One. After that the Stubble of shaved hair started falling from the back of the Head onto my chest or sink. So I guess the solution contains Glycerin so that the Hair stays in the Shaving Head.
Refilling one of those cartridges makes as much sense to me as trying to refill an ink cartridge! If you want to run the risk of damaging a perfectly good razor – or printer – go for it. I’m not that cheap. Ever think of opening the razor, using the brush once in a while and using the self clean once or twice a week?
Some issues w/ homemade cleaning solution:
1. 190 Proof Everclear (95% ethyl alcohol) is available on line from winechateau.com.
2. For lubrication I am using castor oil. Castor oil is one of a few oils soluble in alcohol and is a very good metal lubricant. It has been used for decades in methanol as an engine lubricant for model airplane engines. Completely soluble in ethanol. Also used for decades as a high performance car engine lubricant (direct sump/splash engine oil). I am using 1 mL/16 oz of Everclear.
3. On my 1st try the indicator light on the charger went yellow then red indicating a low solution level.. Traced this to low electrical conductivity of my Everclear/castor oil mixture. A Fluke ohmeter gave ~ 7 Mohm for my solution vs ~ 0.9 Mohm for the Braun cleaner (DC resistance of liquids is tricky but relative measurement should be OK).
4. Adding water increases conductivity (resistance drops) but then the castol oil come out of solution (liquid becomes cloudy) and I think high water content is bad for the razor (may lead to rusting)
5. Looking for a way to increase the conductivity without using water. The key may be the blue coloring agent. Food coloring (Blue #1) is an organic salt and this may increase conductivity without adding much water content. Will post results.
6. Then we need a cost analysis to see if this makes any sense at all!!
In Canada cartridges cost about $11 each. I pick them up in the U.S. once a year or so. IMHO Braun and its distributor is spitting in our faces with that pricing.
Hi, I have tested this for about a year now and it works perfectly. No damage to the shaver and the red light only comes on only when reservoir needs to be refilled. Both products are available at Wal-Mart:
1. Fill the reservoir with 70% isopropyl alcohol – cost about $2.00 for 16oz. So you can fill the reservoir 10 times or so for $2.00.
2. Add 10 drops of ‘Lectric’ shave for improved odor. You don’t need this and it’s only for scent. Cost is about $8.00 and this will probably last you 5 years at 10 drops every time you fill your reservoir. I am sure any similar product like Skin Bracer after shave would do the same job.
I keep 2 reservoirs on hand. One in the shaver charger and one cleaned and dried out and I just rotate them when the reservoir runs out. To clean the reservoir run hot water through it for several minutes to remove all the shavings and then just place it somewhere to dry out over the next few weeks while the other reservoir is in use.
The comments about the dangers of Methanol are absolutely correct. Methanol is a dangerous poison. Any “denatured alcohol” from Lowes, etc has a significant methanol component. SD-Alcohol is ethanol which is “Specially Denatured” without methanol. If you cannot get SD-alcohol then use Everclear from the ABC store (high purity ethanol with no additives or denaturants).
Just went to my local CVS and they had the cleaners on clearance for $4 for a two pack. I picked up 4 boxes.
Have used Ethanol with a spoon of tap water and half a teaspoon of Glycerin and few drips of lemon oil. Works perfectly. At first the Red empty light came on. I added some water to the big hole. After that it worked but soon stopped with empty indicator. So I put more water and the the device working.
Guess it senses the level with conductivity. After a few shaves, the body salt increases the conductivity and the Charger shows a lower level. Have browsed on the internet nut have not found out that how the Clean and Charge stand detects the level.
Lot of idiots who know jack shit about chemistry spewing crap here.
Anyway, about 70-80% ethanol (rest is water), 1-3 mL glycerol, and a few drops of your favourite scent will work well.
Other notes:
Alcohols are polar. They dissolve well in other polar substances like water and glycerol (glycerin). They DO NOT dissolve well with non polar substances like oils. They dissolve a LITTLE BIT but not a great deal. Also, water can dissolve a limited amount of non-polar substances as well.
Methanol is poisonous if you metabolize it or absorb a great deal of it. I HIGHLY doubt that the amount that’s on your razor is enough to do anything at all to you. It is poisonous if you drink it because it is metabolized in your body to formic acid. If you absorb too much of it by other means, it is a CNS depressant similar to ethanol (drinking alcohol).
has anyone tried to use the norelco hq200 solution instead?
You have given your readers false potentially harmful information. Please read the following:
Do not use any denatured alcohol except SD-38 or SD-40. Most other denatured alcohols contain methanol which is toxic including the fumes. The SD alcohols contain denaturing agents that prevent consumption of the ethanol but are non-toxic. This is why they are used in mouthwashes and other products that contact our bodies. SD alcohols are difficult to obtain. SD-40 alcohol is known as “perfumers alcohol”. Use this Google search to find:
http://www.google.com/#pq=perfumers+alcoho&hl=en&cp=17&gs_id=7&xhr=t&q=perfumers+alcohol&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&safe=off&source=hp&pbx=1&oq=perfumers+alcohol&aq=0&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=55dcc7523cfd78c6&biw=1272&bih=776
I use grain alcohol, 190 proof..
The “perfume” is lemon extract with oil of lemon not the fake stuff. Five drops will do.
The lubricant is a type of silicone which is soluble in alcohol (polar solvent). This is known as phenyl trimethicone. Also difficult to obtain. Shin Etsu of Akron, Ohio distributes it as “KF-56”. Good luck getting some. Twenty drops will do.
Don Spatola
I found this recently.
I bought Braun 790 year and half ago, used original cartrige for about half year then after I found out that in Croatia are almost $30 US or 23EUR I just cleaned it with water.
Last week head become to noisy and hurt while shaving so I guess blades are not sharp as they should be.
Now crusing on eBay and saw these replacements and by asking google about this “miracle water” I found this.
So I am using this chance to ask you guys should I try to save this head with cleaning with rubbing alcohol or to buy new head and then apply your replce solution for Braun cartiges?
291 comments so far ,, that’s a wealth of opinions!
I wanted to mention one point and inquire about another,
Well, alcohol dissolves oil, true, but that’s a reversible reaction, like water and salt.. The trick is that the oil while dissolved in alcohol does not interfer much with the detregent properties alcohol, but once the last layer of alcohol dries off the surface of the metallic &moving parts of the Pulsonic razor head, the traces of oil will not evaporate, and form a uniform thin layer of oil , hence, lubrication is achieved.
My question: have you noticed any tear and wear on your Braun pulsonic over repeated times of using this formula??
Thanks again, and I will be reviewing and hopefully commenting more of your interesting articles ..
Merry xmas & Happy new year
Steve, It’s more likely a lack of electrical conductivity with the solution or electrical contacts ( there is a pin on the cartridge that makes contact when the shaver cleaner unit is closed) not the solution colour, but I know exactly what you mean regarding the possibility of a colour sensor….. but when you think about it, the solution is anything but clear after a few cleaning cycles so a color sensor would probably get confused!!! The original Braun solution is clear (I’ve emptied one to analyse the solution) it looks blue in the cartridge because the micro fibre filter is blue. Add a little water, a few drops at a time, rather than colour it would be interesting to see if that works.
Anon* Good that worked, pipe cleaner was it??
I use a little less baby oil in the solution now, after all it only requires a micro layer on the foil and head, and it is kept cool by contact with your skin.
Have a great Christmas all,
Greg.
Greg…the denatured alcohol was evaporating and I had no idea as to why the evaporation. You nailed it. The small hole that you mentioned was plugged. It is the return for the liquid to the cartridge. It works the same as before now. It is cleaning more thoroughly too.
Has anyone seen a cleaning station reject the fluid?
I used denatured alcohol, some all-in-one oil and some of my favorite cologne. When I first tried to clean with it, the cleaning unit kept dropping the fluid indicator back to red and then would try again. This cycled over and over. So I thought about it and the only difference that is obvious would be the color. My solution was clear but the store bought is bluish. So I put a few drops of blue food coloring, shook it up, and the cleaning station bought it. First try. I’m a mechanical engineer and know that it would be pretty simple for the designers to put a sensor to check for clear fluid. Possibly to protect from someone trying to use plain water. Or possibly to ensure you buy their refills at $7 a pop. Regardless, I’m cleaning for about $2 a pop. Whoo-hoo. If I didn’t enjoy this kind of thing, it’d be easy to admit the $5 is worth the clean-out, refill and avoiding blue food coloring spots on my hands for a day.
Folks, be very wary of the Shaver Cleaner stuff being peddled here. Be sure to look at the description on ebay carefully. The prices vary all over the place for the same amount of product (3 refills) and the product does not include the alcohol which you have to provide yourself. So what you are buying is just the scent and the lubricating oil as well as the claim of some ‘secret’ ingredient that makes it work.
Ripoff.
BS
Both Witch Hazel and Wintergreen have been mentioned. Both are herbal oil extracts. Some Witch Hazel products also contain Wintergreen. The herbal products are both included in various concoctions that include alcohol, usually isopropyl, anywhere fro 30% to 70%. I tried a Wintergreen made by Aaron brands sold by CVS. It contained 70% Isop., water, coloring and methyl salycilate (the Wintergreen) which is an acid, essentially aspirin. It works fine except after 6 months the acid began to eat away the coating of the shaver head and discolor the plastic on the shaver body near the head, essentially anywhere the liquid touched plastic. It has no effect on the stainless steel metal parts and the plastic is intact but looks bleached by the acid.
I would not recommend Wintergreen or any product that contained it.
Witch Hazel is a herbal oil which may work better as long as no Wintergreen (Methyl Salycilate) is included.
First off, thanks for all this info. i know i’m late in the game here, but i’m curious as to the use of Witch Hazel as a cleaner. I’ve only seen one person mention it. Anyone else consider this?
Thanks,
joel
Hey guys,
I could not believe that the home depot product I thought was just denatured ethyl alcohol(ethanol), was actually 50% methyl alcohol(methanol). But sure enough when I called up the MSDS on the product, there it was in black and white.
Do yourself a favor and live longer. Don’t use this to clean your razor. Methanol is highly toxic, easily absorbed through the skin, not to mention the lungs.
Check it out yourself. I have seen this oblivious attitude towards methanol before.
Insane and another example of the superhighway of misinformation.
In Greece : Alcohol 70% with glycerine & lemon
3 months works perfect.
At Sklavenitis supermarket 1,5 euro (or less ?) for 500ml
I think it’s the same as original !!!
The original shaver cleaning cartridge has two aditives. Ons is a cleaner the second is a synthetic lubricant. I sell a knock off cleaner in bulk on ebay. Two quarts cost $30 including shiping. Look for shaver cleaner on ebay.
I have reverse engineered the braun shaver cleaner. I sell it for $29.99 for 2 quarts enough for 11 refills. Find me on ebay. User name Shavercleaner
Wow; all this seems like a hassle. Braun’s gotten a bit too clever, or a bit too greedy. I’m going to opt for another brand instead.
To Anonymous from 1 September 2011 at 12:54 pm
English is not my normal language, nice to learn some new expressions, I like to read these kind of things.
=>go peddle your junk elsewhere
Also important note from Greg, check and clean the small drain in the shaver bath area.
Also if the small drain hole in the corner of the shaver cleaning bath area is blocked it retains the cleaning solution longer arising to a higher amount of evaporation. A pipe cleaner works well!
When you put in a new cartridge take care of the rubber which must close secure the big hole in the cartridge when you close the cleaner. When it has to much contact with the air it flews away in a short time. (through the air)
Check for correct rubber position also.
It senses the level of the fluid, I think, probably it senses also the kind of fluid. When you add to much normal water it seems to crash or flip. Then you must reset it by renewing the fluid and take the power cord off a few times.
Does anyone know how the clean and renew determines when to change from green light to amber and then red? Does it sense the amount of fluid left or does it just keep count of the cleaning cycles for each cartridge? I have had cartridges that only give me two or three weeks instead of a month.
“BARBICIDE: see my Sept 17 and December 14, 2009 posts awhile back. Although Barbicide is about as cheap as you can get and made for barbershop and salon razors and scissors and is mostly concentrated rubbing alcohol to be diluted with water,DO NOT USE! Not sure what else in it caused the problem, but the top of the foil of the cutter head eroded!!! It real killed my face because I did not realize it until I went to use it!”
It still is troubling me as to what the problem is since it should do the job the best at the lowest rock bottom price. Still investigating……..I want to test it again, but don’t want to have to pay for a new head since it is fairly new. i probably will again when this head is close to replacement.
what was the verdict on using the premade salon Barbicide? That seems the most sensible to me
That’s very cheap, I haven’t seen a two pack before, they’re always a three pack here.
Even the three packs are a good price – if the freight isn’t expensive, like it is to this part of the globe!
I have just purchased a 100ml lemon oil for NZ$20 (about US$16.80) that should last for many years!
Shavercleaner – go peddle your junk elsewhere, this is the wrong venue for you. Learn to spell btw.
Ebay has the Braun two pack for $5.00
I reverse engineered the electric razor used on remengton Shavers. I have thw knock off for sale on ebay. Search for it on ebay. My ebay name is shavercleaner.
jjjjjjjjjj – that exact mix about 18 to 20 months, before that I had a bit more oil and less water, I also tried a couple of different oils, even light machine oil, but settled on the baby oil as the preference. The shaver looks almost new, only some wear where I hold it, and the base still looks like new. About every 3 months or so I give the shaver head a rinse under hot water as it does get a few shavings accumulating where the cleaner solution doesn’t reach – where the head joins the body of the shaver.
The shaver has made a number of trips to various parts of the world without the base, I just give it a drop of shaver oil before I go and just use the brush and rinse the head.
How about using your home made solution after the first cartridge, that way if you have problems you always have a Braun one on hand.
Thanks again Greg, I will try it. So how long you have bee using this solution? No damage to the shaver’s station?
I started using my shaver only now, so I will first buy couple cleaning cartridges and once used, I will fill them with your solution.
I should have pointed out, essential oils vary in strength and smell depending on the manufacturers distillation process used, eg. steam, vacuum or solvent (solvent tends to also bring over waxes that you don’t want in the cleaner mix) don’t add the full amount as in my mix above, it’s easy to add more but hard to take it out!
Some oils 5 or 6 drops per 500mls is plenty.
jjjjjjjjjj – and I thought kids of oil was the next step after baby oil :-)
The oil of lemon is mostly for fragrance, it does have some lubricating properties, but not that great. The baby oil (I use Johnsons) is a light mineral oil, better for lubricating (my wife uses it on her legs sometimes so we already had some at home).
I guess that almost any essential oil could be used for fragrance, although some tend to set hard or sticky, or have a strong colour that will deposit onto parts of the shaver and cleaning station, oil of lemon is more or less colourless. The only essential oils I have tried are Lemon, Lemon Myrtle (almost more of a lemony smell than lemon) and orange.
These are about $3 to $5 for a 10ml bottle (enough for about 10 cartridges) sometimes cheaper in larger amounts.
Don’t be tempted to use juice as it’s very acidic.
Does that answer your question?
I meant two kinds :)
Thanks Greg, appreciate your input to this discussion. One more question. Why adding to kids of oils? Baby and lemon? Thanks
The original Braun solution does use a “surfactant” that is basically a wetting agent or soap, as is shampoo. I think this is to help keep the lubricating oil in solution, as it’s not totally soluble in ethanol (denatured alcohol) by itself. It could also aid in the cleaning process. The only reason I used shampoo is that it is a soap that has been tested on skin (dish wash liquid may work just as well if it’s okay in skin) ‘Clear’ shampoo because I know it doesn’t have any gritty additives – mine was supplied at a Hotel I stayed at.
I mean, if Braun original solution does not have shampoo, why you recommend to add it?
why shampoo??
Good job mate! Finally some sensible information.
Hi everyone,
Denatured alcohol is clear methylated spirits- ethyl alcohol (ethanol) with methyl alcohol (methanol) added to make it poisonous or a bittering agent to make it unpalatable. I buy a 4L container of clear meths for about $NZ15 (about $US12) from a chemical supply store. Freshly distilled ethanol will take up water from the atmosphere to about 95% anything higher usually has an additive like benzene or methanol.
A mention of Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) – it’s also very inflammable, hard on the skin, okay on most plastics not good on paint, coatings and adhesives, not sure if I’d trust it long term on my shaver!!
Be wary that glycerine (another type of alcohol) can be be corrosive over time and is hydroscopic, taking on water from the atmosphere especially steamy bathrooms!!! It’s not a good metal lubricant and in fact can add to the friction.
Anyway enough of that – it was mentioned earlier that the user had the shaver stop in the middle of shaving but could be restarted by a press of the on button, I too had this. I think it is a safety feature of the Braun to stop it over revving/vibrating I discovered it did it only on my own cleaner mix not the commercial mix, so some experimenting later I found it happened if I added too much oil.
I have been using the mix below for a couple of years with no problems whatsoever to me or the shaver . You may have to vary the lemon oil depending on the makers concentration. I have also used lemon myrtle. The mix smells and behaves like the Braun original mix.
My Mix: Shaver cleaner
(Makes approximately 515mls, 3 x 170ml cartridges)
95% Ethanol (clear methylated spirits) 480ml
Water (preferably distilled or filtered rain) 30ml
Baby oil (supermaket) 20 drops (1ml)
Clear liquid shampoo (surfactant) (e.g. small bottle from a hotel room) 6 drops
Oil of lemon essential oil 70 drops (3.5ml)
Add lemon oil & baby oil to the ethanol in a storage bottle (I use a 1 litre lab bottle) mix by shaking until it is well mixed. In another container mix shampoo with Luke warm water. Slowly add water/shampoo mix to ethanol mix keeping the new mix clear (it may go cloudy for a brief moment then back to clear)
Greg.
I use Pre Electric shave (Shop Rite brand) and it works just fine. It’ mostly SD Alcohol 40-B with fragrance. No need to mix anything else and it cost less than $3 per bottle. You can refill at least 2x with one bottle.
Hi everyone! GREAT informative post (for once!)!
In reading the thread, I wish to add a few comments:
first,, why use denatured alcohol?
The reasons are:
1.. that it evaporates cleanly (no residue)
2.. it also evaporates quickly so you have to buy more sooner!
NOTE: I have noticed that using isopropyl alcohol DID melt/damage the plastic parts on my shaver head..
I have just read this post, and just happen to already have bought the right stuff (SLX denatured alcohol) and, mixed up a batch to try! I have the Braun “series Seven” shaver (was VERY expensive!) and this thing EATS the cartridges (one every 3 to 4 weeks!) not to mention, I have “weeds of wire mesh” for a beard, and that requires up to 2 shaves 2 a day! (ugh! I so HATE shaving) So, I have been using isopropyl alcohol to “top off” the cartridge for about 6 months.. it has damaged/melted the plastic sides of the “Pulsonic” cartridges, but the series 7 one that came with the unit seemed Okay (it wasn’t exposed to the alcohol as long, though) the “pulsonic” cartridge did finally seize up- and I threw it away after it tore my face to shreads.(about 3 months old) Did using the isopropyl cause this? I don’t know.. I will note I didn’t add any lemon juice or light machine oil at that time..
I have now mixed up a batch of denatured alcohol and found the vapors very strong- so I added some isopropyl alcohol to the mix (i’m guessing about 80/20 but I don’t know which one is more, I didn’t exactly measure anything… I’ll note I did this before stumbling upon this fine informative post!)
I don’t have any glycerin handy, but I’ll put it on the grocery list- though its already time to shave again so I’ll have to do without for now.
these cartridges are going UP in price too, geez! I figure I’ll just do this tricj a few times over then replace the thing and do it again.. (you get the idea)
again, great information here! it was a shocker that I found this place- usually, good info is very SCARCE on the net these days.. (I expect Braun will have this place taken down at some point– hopefully NOT!)
I’ve been using the SLX denatured alcohol (the stuff in the pic) for three years now. I go through a gallon about every 18 months. I brush clean my razor after every shave & use the cleaning unit about every third shave. Not a single problem in three years & I have saved approximately $200.00 bucks.
OOPS! I Forgot:
In the Isopropyl/Rubbing alcohol formula above, you may also want to add a little water as Cedric and others suggested 10ml (2 teaspoons) to 30ml (6 teaspoons) of water for any potential base sensor problems.
Wow, thank you, Mr. Mike, for this user-friendly summary. Great to have all these observations in one place.
Experience update…
I dont’ want to beat this to death but just to follow up:
DENATURED ALCOHOL/SLX/SD-alcohol-40-B: Although Braun uses denatured alcohol, I cannot recommend it due to price, flammable danger, and possible other chemicals in different products.
PURE GRAIN ALCOHOL/EVERCLEAR: cannot recommend it due to costs, taxes and flammable too.
BARBICIDE: see my Sept 17 and December 14, 2009 posts awhile back. Although Barbicide is about as cheap as you can get and made for barbershop and salon razors and scissors and is mostly concentrated rubbing alcohol to be diluted with water,DO NOT USE! Not sure what else in it caused the problem, but the top of the foil of the cutter head eroded!!! It real killed my face because I did not realize it until I went to use it!
I was also testing the Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol at the same time, but others here experienced no real similar problems except another poster who had some tarnishing of the metal/chrome as I did as well. Not sure why others would not also experience this problem using the rubbing alcohol or why it would cause it on SOME razors, but not all????
****To JAMES & OTHERS*****Before the head deteriorated, the razor was starting and stopping frequently. I ended up buying a new head and it has been fine. Not sure if dirt or it was a mechanical jam up, but regardless of the foil deteriorating, it was probably due for a new head anyways.
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: for many, it seems that using the rubbing alcohol is the reasonably lowest cost. The 70% rubbing alcohol (very cheap at a dollar store, Costco, Sam’s Club, or even Walgreens or CVS). Fill to 3/4 of the top (about 120-130ml, 4.4 ounces, or slighlty over a half of one 8 oz cup) after adding half to a full teaspoon (2.5- 5 ml) of glycerin seems to be good and an optional 2.5-5ml lemon oil or fragrance.
You could replace the glycerin with silicone, personal lubricant, or 3 in 1 sewing machine oil, but I think glycerin would be best since no additives, pure and harmless.
You could also take the rubbing alcohol and add a splash of aftershave like Aqua Velva or similar knockoff.
Still easier and better is the wintergreen version at Walgreens etc that has the scent and the glycerin in it already. BUT,and not sure why, a couple of us have experienced problems with the rubbing alcohol so experiment/use at your own risk. The 90+% stuff is probably better if available and not at a high price due to the lower water content in my opinion since the Braun stuff is only 5% water.
BRAUN CARTRIDGES/What?/Yes: IF you can get them cheap like $4 each, do the following and this applies to any of the above methods mentioned to save money and hassle on cleaning the cartridges:
1) each time used, take off the foil cutter and GENTLY brush the swivel head with the brush
2) run the cutter under water well with fairly high flow.
* if you do this, you only need to charge your shaver and not clean it super well often as YASWATA found out after his base failed.
BUT, after time say 3 or more months, build up CAN happen and affect the razor – the brush and water will not get everything over time.
3) So….one time a week, use the Braun cartridge or the rubbing alcohol formulas (if you prefer and have no problems and really want to nickel and dime things). You might be able to get by with once a month, but I suggest once a week to keep it in top shape.
4) seal the cartridge each time to prevent evaporation. You have also already limited the amount of hair collected in the cartridge for even more useful life beyond evaporation. And, if using the rubbing alcohol or another formula, the cartridges will not fill up with as much hair as quickly if you are going through the trouble of cleaning them out on a regular basis before refilling (also use a eye dropper with water to push the hairs out of the holes/screen).
And, since much of the cleaning is done daily with the brush and water rinse, the cartridges can last a very long time and do the job economically for when it is really only needed: to get the fine built up debris out of the cutting head. That is why I actually say to reconsider $4 Braun cartridges IF the above steps are followed.
5)enjoy your razor, no reason to keep reading sites or spend too much time worrying about the cartridges, formulas and cost in my opinion.
Hope this long post helped someone, good luck! – Mr. Mike
I’ve been refilling mine for a couple of years using rubbing alchohol and witch hazel. Roughly 60/40 mix,and it’s worked perfectly thus far.
OK, just tried some Walgreens Wintergreen and a few dashes of Walgreens generic Aqua Velva for the first time and no problems with the cleaning process. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
@ vahe:
Add water to it, or any of the other suggestions listed above. Your cartridge should be recognized as full after this.
My Braun unit says empty even though I refill it with alcohol. They must have a way of telling the unit it’s been used before. How are you others getting it to work after refilling?
A way back one person mentioned that their Pulsonic would stop by itself in the middle of a shave and when restarted, stopped again & again. They wanted to know if anyone else experienced this, well I have and am beside myself as what to do. Mine is model 9585. Also the cutter/trimmer won’t close. I took it into a shaver repair shop and the salesperson said this was the 6th pulsonic to come in with the trimmer problem. He didn’t sound too optimistic about it so I didn’t leave it for the repair man. Instead I wrote to Braun about it but so far haven’t received any comments. Anyone else having these problems?
Thank you all for sharing your experience! I followed your advices and it worked like a charm. My mix: 163 ml isopropyl alcohol (90% I think), 2.6 ml glycerin and 2 ml lemon essential oil. Then I added water until the red light was gone (about 3 ml in the end).
Thank you Roy! :)
These ideas seem great.
I have two Braun shavers (at both my residences). I bought a bottle of Florida water and have refilled my cartridge with that. Been using it for over two months now. Not only does is work great, but it also smells really good.
On my shaver at my upstate (secondary) home, I had an old bottle of a generic brand electric pre-shave splash. I also refilled my cartridge with this and have had great results.
Both of the products I mentioned (Florida Water & Electric pre-shave splash) contain denatured alcohol and fragrance. I have felt no difference in the use of my shavers since switching from Braun’s CCR2 solution to these over the counter substitutes.
I hope this helps someone.
Yashwata
When it comes to DN 40 alcohol and other name it also goes by.
Is Methanol ethenol called Metholated Spirits the same and it is safe for skin to skin contact with the occasion accidental cut 95% ethenol 5% other part menthenol. Hence the name methanol
9 months ago I begin only cleaning my shaver once a week, just brushing and blowing it out during the week. I take the cartridge out and replace the cap. It lasted 9 months and 2 weeks. They could easily design it to have an airtight seal inside the device but wouldn’t want THAT.
91% alcohol
Lemon essential (fragrance, antibacterial)(8-10 drops)
grape seed oil (tablespoon)
re: https://yashwata.info/2008/03/14/how-to-refill-braun-pulsonic-cleaning-cartridges/#comment-9878
Initial trial, after overfilling then removing excess fluid from the cartridge, the unit cleaned and charged without problem. The glycerin content seems fine. The shaver glided very smoothly. The only problem was minor, the wintergreen scent might be a bit strong, but the amount of scent transferred to the skin seems acceptable.
I think that’s a good find Roy. I had been using 91% Isopropyl in mine, sometime with Glycerin sometimes without. I recently ran out of the 91%. Standing in the isle at the store, I found the 91% was much more expensive than the 70%, so I thought, what the heck and bought the 70%. I am using it straigt, and so far it’s working fine. Can’t understand why anyone would want to spent more when this works so well.
Just getting into this conversation and I’ve found a product at Walgreens that seems to fit the bill, so I’m going to give it a try. It is listed as “Walgreens Apothecary Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 70% Wintergreen & Glycerin”.
Seems that it will have enough water content to satisfy the sensors, has wintergreen for scent (I like wintergreen anyway) and has glycerin already in it, though I have no idea what proportion of glycerin to alcohol.
In any event, will give this a try and let you know my opinion. Just thought I’d mention the product now in case anyone else wanted to test it.
Anybody tried anti-freezing wind screen washer fluid? I did, but not quite satisfied, as it’s a little sticky on the skin, but seams to work fine else. In Norway, where I live, this product is easy available at all gas stations, or even the local grocery store, for some 5-8$ a gallon.
Just stumbled across this site. I’ve had a Braun 8595 since April 2005, and have used it everyday since. I have used plain ole wintergreen 70% isopropyl alcohol to refill the units, and it has worked like a charm.
The wintergreen leaves a very pleasant minty smell on the shaver, and my shaver head looks new after years of use. No rust, no discoloration at all. The shaver indicator lights works just as they do with the Braun solution cartidges–never had a problem there either.
I’ve never added anything other than the 70% isopropyl, although I do have an old bottle of generic Aqua Velva (CVS store brand; how’s that for cheap? I can’t even splurge for real Aqua Velva!) that I picked up for mega cheap a long time ago and never did really use. Well, it has a bit of glycerin in it, and I’ll add a few drops of that to mix as that seems to be some something the original Braun formulation does include. But I’ll not go more than a few drops, as I’ve had such good luck just using nothing but 70% isopropyl. (The wintergreen variety is very convenient for imparting a fresh fragrance–it costs the same as the clear 70% isopropyl at my local drugstore).
Dear Folks,
Just for my info, Pls advise how long you still use yr first 760cc foil/cutter ??
Hey Irish
We’ll give it a ‘shot’
Guys,
What about using cheap vodka?
It doesn’t smell and it will evaporate quick.
The Irish
I have been following this discussion for about 8 months, thanks for the great comments and suggestions.
To those who have been using isopropyl alcohol for at least several months:
(1) Has anyone noticed any deterioration in the base station? The fluid pumping mechanism must have several components that are made from various plastics and rubbers and my concern is that isopropyl alcohol is not equally compatible with plastics and rubbers as ethyl alcohol is.
(2) Also, has anyone noticed any deterioration of the plastics parts of the razor (located as part of the cutter, and that hold the cutter to the razor body)?
I am not worried about rusting, as the razor is intended to be cleaned by water (the razor is watertight) but about the effect that isopropyl may have with the various plastic parts.
Thanks, Pete
Yashwata
I don’t believe Everclear is sold in australia. Correct me if am wrong.
Please tell what is the safest and simplest recipe alternative to ensuring longlife of my braun Pulsonic razor and charger/cleaner product 790cc.
As safety is always more important than savings. If ever sorry
While not putting myself at danager or damaging my unit
Thank you
P.S. There was so much info didn’t know which one was the best one or the correct choice for me.
P.S There so much info I didn’t know which one was the best or correct one to chose from.Your thread
91% Isopropyl – been using for well over a year. Sometimes I add a few drops of mineral oil, sometimes not. No problems at all so far. You may need to unplug and replug in the power cord a few times to get it to reset, but it always does.
I have only Ethyl Alcohol 70%. – Is it Ok & safe ??
Can I refill all the 170ml with alcohol ?? or put some water ??
Can put a drop of Aftershave such as Brutt33 ??
Many thks for thoughts.
Thks folks for all above :)
just use isopropyl alcohol with a drop of lectric shave liquid works well
guys,
thansk for all the nice home “cooking” receipt for the cleaning stuff.
will try one myself when i get to that point.
a wee though in connection to the “sensor unit” that appear to test the fluid.
it might serv two purposes, one is as identified to detect when the alcohol
has evaporated and hence the fluid is to old and dirty.
the other reason that no one has suggested is that a pure 99% alcohol fluid
going up to a heating element might have triggered the safety guys at braun to request that it also makes sure that the fluid is diluted to 50ish procent to minimize any risk of “accidents”
yes it probably is still flammable down to 42 procents or so, but….
just my 2 cents
Also, the Buy-It-Now-Store at the link above has battery cells for Braun shavers as requested in the post before mine.
http://buyitnow64.stores.yahoo.net/brrepa.html
I just wanted to add a link for anyone who experiences the common problem with Pulsonic shavers of a trimmer that won’t fold shut. There are a couple of plastic tabs that break in the trimmer mechanism so the retracting spring fails to work. Via a web search I found a source for a trimmer replacment.
http://buyitnow64.stores.yahoo.net/brshrese7pul.html
And here’s a thread that describes how to replace the trimmer:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t4443775-braun_pulsonic_model_9595_trimmer_will
I’ve been using rubbing alcohol cut with a bit of water for many months now, and it’s working fine. The person who had rusting probably has a clog in the base unit’s head well drain. The well should drain after cleaning so the shaver head can dry.
been using Das.Maus method above for a year and a half; thank you and thank you yashwata..
i blow out the jammed hairs in the cartridge big hole with my air compressor in the garage…the liquid sprays out the small hole; the screen is pretty tough and allows this;
i also put a fill mark on new cartridges with a black marker so i fill em right, because i prepare a whole plastic alcohol bottle of solution at a time;
NOTE: a shaver shop here in chicago area who does repair on braun told me not to plug my 390 directly into the wall and use it, because as time goes on you burn up the lands on the circuit board inside; it is not designed for direct use; just have your battery replaced and you will have long life.
is there a site with info on replacing your rechargeable battery? i can solder but i want some guidance; also where to buy the battery.
BTW, if your shaver doesn’t want to take charge, check the two spring loaded contacts in the cradle.
Mine needed some sanding with contact cleaner spray.
Methyl spirits (ethanol + a little methanol) alone will not work, not enough conductivity.
I put 2 drops of liquid soap in, and it worked.
Liquid soap may not be the best source of ions, but heck it.
That seems like a lot of trouble to me, but it’s very economical. Thanks for working that out!
I agree with Mike (25 July 2010). I take the foil and cutter off after each use and rinse and dry them. I use the cleaning solution about every week to ten days when the shaver needs recharging I take the cartridge out and replace the cap after every use. Each cartridge lasts several months. On amazon.com, I can get three cartridges for $12 plus shipping.
Hey guys I have a braun 7526 which ive had for over 2 yrs and I have never bought one single refill, I have been using the 90% scented rubbing alcohol since day one. Which I learned from a friend who worked at the braun factory in scotland.
Two litle tricks to ensure the official refills last a long time is to clean out the worst of the detritis from the razor with the little brush first before doing a clean/recharge. Also remove the cartridge from the dispenser and replug it with the cap firmly when not in use to prevent evaporation. It’ll last for months that way.
I’ve read a lot of this blog with interest. I’ve owned 2 Braun shavers with cleaning units. Stopped buying refills years ago. All I’ve ever used was Isopropyl alcohol (whatever % is avialable at the time) and nothing else. Before each refill, I clean out the unit with warm water as best I can and immediately refill the unit by eye. Never had a problem. Always worked. No added scent or lubricant. Though I do add a couple of drops of plain mineral oil to the cutter foil when I remember to do so from time to time.
I usually go a good 2-2.5 years between cutter/foil replacements. Always get a nice clean shave. It ain’t rocket science people.
I’ve been following this good blog for a long time now and I know it’s difficult to read all the comments from the beginning so many people start from scratch and repeat what has already been written or done many times, particularly what scent to use, lubricant and machine oil to add and alcohol to buy.
So I’ll periodically post a simple cheap and good solution that has worked for me for over a year now. No expensive everclear, machine oil or exotic scents to mess with:
Fill the container with cheap 70% Isopropyl alcohol and add 5 dashes of Aqua Velva Aftershave. That’s it. Aqua Velva is made up of SD Alcohol, glycerin and fragrance and 5 dashes provides just the right lubrication and the manly smell. The shaver loves it and I think it’s probably very close to the original Braun solution but at a fraction of the price.
Clean the container periodically by shaking hot water through it.
Hey guys,
Just to clear up, that’s the exact same razor. It used to be called the 9595, but now it’s a “Series 7” so it’s called the 7-790cc (there’s a cheaper 7-760cc version with an LCD screen instead of the pretty LED).
I know this because I purchased it when it was the 9595. Then I had it replaced by the company under warranty. Everything was exactly the same except for the numbers.
Mine has the number 9595 on it.
Hello,I was just wondering what braun electric razor do you own? I own one of the newest model’s called the series 7-790 pulsonic electric razor that cost close to $200.00 after shipping cost’s from amazon,which is where I bought it because it was cheaper there than in the actual stores like bestbuy ect.ect. Please message me back.
Thankyou,
Jeremy Belcastro
I probably was wrong with writting 90%, I probably use 91% as it only comes in two strenghs at my local store, 70% and 90ish% (too lazy to go look). In my opinion, the higher the alcohol % the better. I can’t tell you that it won’t hurt YOUR razor, I CAN only tell that it has worked fine for me and my razor doesn’t show any ill effects. Good luck!
Hello,I have some 91% rubbing alcohol in my home. Would that work for refilling my braun series 7-790 pulsonic electric shaver’s clean and renew solution to save money on the refill’s? I just wan’t to make sure that this would be ok. I really don’t wan’t to chance messing up my electric shaver.
Thankyou,
Jeremy Belcastro
I have been using 90% isopropyl-alcohol with a dash of mineral oil for almost 2 years now. So far so good. I have also been using the cartridge as well. Razor shows no sign of rust and still cuts great. I just put in a few drops of mineral oil. I don’t add any fragrance. Might work for you, and it’s VERY cheap. I wash out the cartridge with very hot water and a little liquid soap.
Hello,I can’t use everclear. I live in pa and it is illegal here. Can you recommend anything for people who live in a area of the country that is illegal for everclear to be sold. Please let me know.
Thankyou,
Jeremy Belcastro
Jeremy, I settled on using 151-proof Everclear. Nothing else needs to be added. There are lots of other suggestions in the comments.
Hello,could you please tell me what I should buy exactly for my clean and renew solution for my braun series 7-790 pulsonic electric razor? I need to know exactly what to buy. You said all denatured alcohol is not the same. I would like to know if I have to mix in the denatured alcohol with any water or scent’s of any type for this mixture. Please let me what the solution consist’s of. Please let me know. I would appreciate a response back at your earliest convienience.
Thankyou,
Jeremy Belcastro
Yes, but read the cautions in the article. Not all “denatured alcohol” is the same.
Hello,does using just denatured alcohol work fine for refilling the clean and renew solution in the braun electric shaver?? I don’t wan’t to mess up my braun that I spent close to $200.00 on. It say’s in the manual to not refill them,but I think it is just a scam to make more money.
Thankyou,
Jeremy Belcastro
Scottie B: my complexion is oily; I figure that’s enough lubrication. I could be wrong though. Maybe sprinkling some almond oil on there would improve the experience. I’ll have to try that.
Yashwata,
I would be interested in hearing about this accidental discovery.
Also, Don’t you think that without adding lubricant, the razor blade’s life will be shortened? Not to mention the fact that a hot blade causes sweat, which makes for a very uncomfortable shave.
As of right now, this is my current concoction:
120g SLX Alcohol
70 drops water
5 drops Marvel Mystery Oil
Still perfecting it though.
I tried two different fluids in the year or two before my base stopped working. (It pumped liquid but it did not charge the shaver. Did I break it by using these fluids? I doubt it, but I can’t be certain.)
First I used denatured alcohol from the hardware store. It worked fine, but I don’t really recommend this since it’s so hard to find out what’s really in that stuff. On the other hand, you’re not drinking it, just cleaning your shaver with it; so the risk is probably insignificant. Then I switched to Everclear, which also worked fine. I like the Everclear because we know exactly what’s in it. You can even drink it (in small quantities).
Finally: As I found out by accident, you don’t need the charger and cleaner at all. The shaver works fine by itself. You do have to plug it into the wall occasionally, but one charge is good for dozens of shaves. To clean it, open the head and spray water on it. That big ugly cleaner thing with its buzzing motor and flashing lights — consider discarding it.
So can someone give me the best concoction that they have used, I am interested in trying this and would liek to do it ASAP. Yashwata, you seem to be the man in this, can you let me know exactly what you use and that is what I will do, thanks a ton!
MarkinTO: You can clean the filters simply by getting a medicine dispensing syringe (no needle and about $3 at a drug store), filling it , and shooting back through the filters a few times. This will loosen the crud and let you keep using the cartridge.
I’m using, 4 drops of “Fine Machine/Sewing Machine” oil, 8 drops of pure lemon extract and fill the tank ‘no more than 2/3rds full with Home Hardware brand Methyl Hydrate Alcohol.
I keep the unit, in the bedroom area and keep it covered with a small, folded towel when not in use, as the alcohol will evaporate very quickly.
I clean it, prior to refilling (using the straight alcohol) as mentioned above. Always be careful when using this alcohol, as it’s very dangerous stuff. No sparks, flames or smoking whilst handling it!!! NONE!
I can successfully refill my cart about three times (sometimes four) for about $1.50 per refill, then the filters are just plain clogged.
Both the razor and me are very happy, with this arrangement.
MarkinTO
As I haven’t posted here before, I’m not about to try to catch up on all the posts!!!!!!
I am working on the formula for the cleaner also. I understand Braun changed the mix some months ago, they now use a different cationic tenside surfactant (wetting agent) I have no idea what. A few drops of a wound antiseptic like Dettol would probably work as it contains a surfactant and has been tested on skin.
Just a note Scottie, Glycerol is hydroscopic so any residue will take up water from the atmosphere…and most bathrooms can be high humidity. As a result when you start shaving there may be more friction between cutter & foil and why it gets too hot.
There appears to be a very small amount of an extra vegetable oil in the mix and I suspect something like coconut oil or possibly Aloe Vera. I can find no trace of silicone oil, besides – silicone oil is not soluble in Ethanol. I will do some tests over the next few weeks. The other ingredients I have sussed – just not sure of the proportions yet.
Correction:
*I am NOW trying to discover the perfect amount of glycerin.
So, I think I have discovered the culprit of the mysterious “leftover moisture” problem. I’m pretty sure the remaining liquid is excess glycerin. This would also explain why my razor was getting too hot too fast, as well as the thicker, almost gunky, feeling.
I am not trying to discover the perfect amount of glycerin. I am currently using 120g alcohol (SLX), 20 drops glycerin, and 85 drops purified water. The glycerin is effectively 1ml, and the water 4.25ml. The 85 drops of water is the perfect amount to make the machine sensor read “High” instead of “Empty”. When I put 80 drops of water in, the sensor kept jumping from “High” to “Low” to “High”, etc., so I added the extra 5 drops to solve this. I have concluded that 85 drops of water is the minimum amount to keep the unit functioning. Bill analyzed the clean and renew cartridges and found that they are about 95% alcohol 5% water. If my math is correct, my 85 drops theory dilutes the pure alcohol to 97.5% (2.5% water).
I’VE BEEN USING WALGREENS BRAND 91% DENATURED ALCOHOL FOR ALMOST A YEAR WITH GOOD RESULTS. PERIODICALLY, I APPLY A LIQUID LUBRICANT CALLED “MOOVIT” DIRECTLY TO THE FOIL HEADS. VEGETABLE OIL WOULD WORK TOO, BUT NOT AS WELL. I JUST FILL THE TANK WITH HOT WATER, COVER THE HOLES WITH MY FINGERS, AND SHAKE VIGOROUSLY. (I SHAKE THE TANK, NOT ME!) I THEN DRAIN THE TANK OVER THE TOILET AND REPEAT THE PROCEDURE UNTIL IT IS CLEAN. DO NOT USE A HAIR DRYER TO DRY OUT THE TANK- THE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT OR ON-OFF SWITCH COULD IGNITE THE ALCOHOL.
Scottie B:
All iso is cheap so I don’t think that’s the issue. Is your shaver still wet after 24 hours and your fan in the cleaner works? Maybe you live in a humid climate. There is also cheap 90% iso that you can try.
I’ve never seen a retail store that carries lemon oil. If they do, its going to be a “new age/head shop” type store with outrageous prices. Get the 4oz. size online and you’ll be set for a while.
Instead of fussing about all the lemon oils and extracts I use Aqua Velva. Manly stuff and it already has all the proper ingredients for the shaver:
SD Alcohol
Water
Glycerin
Fragrance
Just a dash into every cartridge after your favorite refill concoction of alcohol and water will do it. Works fine, smells good and also has the lubricants needed to keep the shaver in good condition.
Does anyone know any stores that carry lemon oiL for my renew cartridge? Not to be confused with lemon extract. I’d rather not buy online. Then I’d have to wait & pay S/H. Thanks.
Bill, question for ya:
Do you think that alcohol that is half ethyl and half methyl (such as Klean Strip SLX Denatured) will do the same as the pure ethyl?
The reason I ask is I would much rather pay 1/3 the cost for SLX than pay for Everclear.
Yay Bill!!! We all thank you.
I knew that there had to be a much lower water content than 30%. Thanks so much man. You’re my current hero.
:)
Hey Bob,
Thanks for the input. It helps me determine what I should do next. That’s interesting that the 70% iso dried up for you. I have used a few different combinations of solution (iso, iso&water&glyc, iso&glyc) and I seem to always have the issue of still being wet. But I never have that issue when I use the Clean & Renew. I’ll see if I have any improvements with the slx.
Do you think perhaps the issue is that my 70% iso is really cheap?
I analyzed the product and found it was ethyl alcohol with 5% water. This ignores the fragrance element which you don’t really need.
This is the same as the 190-proof grain alcohol someone mentioned.
It is important to lubricate the head. You can buy a spray can of Ronson Electric Shaver Lubricant, e.g., K-mart. It is important to do this each shave to reduce friction and wear.
70% iso works just fine. I’ve been using it for over a year. Some lubrication is important: too little and the shaver pulls and doesn’t cut well. Too much, and things do thicken up and again it won’t shave well. Here are my proportions: 2ml glycerin and 3ml lemon oil (just for scent, it doesn’t provide much lube) with the rest 70% iso.
Also, you said you shaver remains wet. Does the fan function in the cleaning stand work? After a cleaning run with iso, it dries nicely is is fully dry the next day.
“You don’t think the methanol will leave anything harmful on the razor after it dries do you?”
Nope.
Haha. True. It would seem so. I guess it depends on how quickly the water dries. With mine, the shaver would stay wet for over a day after the cleaning station was finished. Obviously, with the official Clean & Renews, this wasn’t the case, and it bothered me. I figure that the Clean & Renews must have a MUCH lower % of water. I think I’ll try the Klean Strip SLX. It’s 50% ethanol, 49% methanol, and 1% other. You don’t think the methanol will leave anything harmful on the razor after it dries do you? It think it’s only harmful to drink it.
These are good questions. Most of them I am not qualified to answer. I have to confess that it did not occur to me that my use of Everclear might be ruining the charging base. The upside was, when it stopped working I suddenly realized that the shaver can get along fine without it.
On the other hand, it does not seem to me that water content can be the problem. Any commercial alcohol solution, including Braun’s, is at least 5% water and usually much more. Besides, you’re supposed to be able to use the thing in the shower. I have done this many times, and in my experience showers usually involve water.
Sorry ;)
One last thing:
Do you think I should be using lemon oil or glycerin for the lubricant? And how much per container do you find is best?
I forgot to mention that the build-ups seem to be calcium in my last post.
Yashwata,
I have a question for you. After switching to the Everclear, did you notice that there was an improvement over the SLX? Are you saying that you believe the reason your system stopped working is because of your DIY method? Lastly, do you now advise against Everclear/SLX? Inversely, do you promote one or the other? Thanks.
I tried using 70% iso with mine for a few months, and it doesn’t seem to work too well. I think it’s the water. There are some small yet noticeable build ups on the two inner nuts (under the blade cartridge). I believe that the water is responsible for this. I have also been using glycerin, but perhaps I’m using too much? I noticed that the shaver started to get “thicker” after a few minutes use. Perhaps there was too much glycerin and it was building up. It was heating up VERY quickly. I tried removing the glycerin altogether, using just 70% iso. It seemed to reduce some of the overheating, but it was still heating up pretty fast, which it never used to do with the Clean & Renews. Do you think the glycerin is too thick for the blades, or should I just use less? Also, I wonder if the water in the 70% iso is causing the glycerin to have trouble dissolving. I’m looking for something with higher ethanol levels.
G’Day..I use double “D” pure eucalyptus oil, and have done for past three months with no problems.
1 egg cup eucalyptus oil 5 egg cups tap water.. no perfume.
Braun recommend shave in morning before washing face, you can always smell sweet by splashing on a little “Old spice”.
I change cartridge every 21 days.. before warning light comes on.
In Australia 300 ml euc-oil costs about $7.00 and makes 10 cartridges, this oil is very healthy, Koala bears love it…..Bob.
Oh no! I am using 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I have been using it with just a few drops of mineral oil. I have refilled probably 5 times. So far, so good, no ill effects noticed.
I have used normal $2 rubbing (Isopropyl) alcohol for about 5 months with disasterous results. The top part of the shaver is badly rusted (the metal coating on the platic has turned black from shiny metal). I dont know if it is corrosion due to water in the rubbing alcohol or some other reason; but the shaver looks ugly. I was using the Braun cleaner cartridge before that without any harmful effect.
Has anyone tried the Williams ‘Lectric Shave straight for this? It seems like it is ready to go with a few additional additives. I realize that it is not the cheapest route but it is cheaper than the Braun packs and if it works it is easier for sure.
Thanks!
I have been using my own knock off electric shaver cleaner for about three years now.
When I got my Pulsonic for Christmas two years ago I was quite pleased until I figured out how expensive the cleaning cartridges were. I tried to find out what is in them buy researching the MSDS information but struck out. I did find out what is in the Remington Power Clean solution.SD Alcohol 40B (Alcohol Denatured), Water (Eau), Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Fragrance (Parfum), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. You can not get the additives from the local drug store or hardware store.
I bought the additives in bulk from chemical companies. I mixed up a batch of cleaner solution for my self. I have been using my solution since 2007. I sell this on Ebay by the quart $11.99 enough for 5 1/2 refills.
To buy my cleaner go to; shavercleaner.com you will be linked to my ebay sale.
Hey,
I have been refilling for about 2 years now.
Here is my formula,
I found pints of denatured Ethyl alcohol at Wal-Mart or you can buy the gallon at Home Depot and other hardware stores. I also bought Glycerin at Wal-Mart for less than $2. I purchased several different types pure Essential Oils. (Note do not use extract like you can get and the grocery store.)
Here is a description from “Now” the oil supplier.
These are the naturally occurring volatile oils obtained by steam distillation or cold pressing (expression), having the characteristic aroma of the plant part from which it was derived. These 100% pure oils are “neat”, meaning they have not been processed, diluted or manipulated in any way with solvents or other additives. Although a particular species of plant harvested and distilled for its essential oil during a particular growing season in a specific region may produce a fragrance that differs from the same species grown in a different region, many of the main chemical markers and physical specifications may be very similar. NOW’s citrus fruit essential oils are 100% cold pressed. NOW’s other essential oils are typically 100% steam distilled.
Essential Oil, Lemon Oil 1 fl oz. $3.99
Essential Oil, Orange Oil 1 fl oz. $2.79
Essential Oil, Peppermint Oil 1 fl oz. $4.29
Here is the link
http://www6.netrition.com/now_essential_oils_page.html
I have several cartridges so I get one out that I have already cleaned out. Fill up the cartridge ¾ full with Alcohol add 10 drops of Glycerin and 5-10 drops of your choice or oils. Put the cap on and shake for a bit. Install the recycled cartridge and enjoy your shave with the flavor of the month.
Take the old cartridge and flush it out under hot water. This can take a while to get it clean. Then you have to tip it around a bit to get most of the water out of the cartridge. I put it upside down on to finish drying out before storing it for next time.
Last time when my empty light came on I just added about ¼ full more alcohol since I was pretty busy and did not have time to refill the cartridge at the moment. A week later when it was time to clean it out I discovered that the bit of alcohol that I added helped to loosen up the debris so it flushed out easily.
Happy recycling
Just a thought. Noticed a couple of folks had issues after using various mixes. I wonder if some of the problems might be due to different types of alcohol used. Perhaps eating plastic parts in the razor or pump. I wonder, if the hole in the razor that you plug the blade head into softens a bit it may cause a bind that could put a bind in the movement of the head perhaps slowing or stopping it.
One thing that I’m going to try is to drain the leftover cleaning solution through a coffee filter when it’s time to change a cartridge and collect it. When I have enough of this filterd solution I’ll refill a cleaned cartridge and see if that works.
I buy my cartridges at BJ’s wholesale for about $12 and change for a three pack. I figure I’ll be able to get one free for every 3 carts used. Not a huge savings compared to using cheaper raw ingredients but I won’t be adding anything harmful to me or the razor.
Yashwata, I stumbled on your blog while looking for a cheaper way of refilling my Braun cartridge. I am amazed at all the good info, and a little of the bad.
This is my first visit to this type of computer goodies, I think I knew it existed, but was not really interested.
Wow, what an enlightenment. No at least I have found what I need to refil my Cartridge. and save a few bucks.
Now all I have to do is decide which stuff to use and go for it.
Thanks for starting it and keeping it alive.
Its the most computer fun I have ever had.
Dick
Cal;ifornia
u dont need to go buy all the crap mentioned, just
go get some hand sanitizer in the little bottle(has glycerin, orange/citrus/ or any other fruit extract for the scent,and has some isopropyl alcohol/ ethanol, i mixed that with water and tea tree oil and its workin perfect.Smells like mangos now, hehe. Prob work fine without the tea tree oil.
Wow,,, great tips.
I don’t want to hesitate buy that denatured alcohol.
Thanks a lot Yashwata.
What about just refilling with a solution of 100% tea tree oil mixed with some water?
Tea tree oil disinfects cleans and u would think it would lub it up as well.
I can only guess that he means if someone were to light up a cigarette while refilling with the Everclear or SLX alcohol and kept the lighter going on high, holding it to the can or bottle neck after leaving a trail of the alcohol around the house on the way to the bathroom and this person also had the IQ of a toasted marshmallow :)
I am not clear on the mechanism whereby such a disaster would be facilitated, as “In the know” claims.
Yash!! Is he trying to tell that re-filling the cartridges will burn down the house?? EYE OPENER?? :-))
Do not do WHAT?
Abslolutely positively do not do this unless you want to burn your house down and kill your family to save a few bucks. And yes – the insurance investigators are well aware of these concoctions so they’re looking for it when you place your total loss claim. Good luck.
Here is a sure-fire method for cleaning out clogged cells in the honeycomb underneath the filter in the large hole. These cells tend to get clogged because the cleaning solution is drawn up through this hole and debris in the solution accumulates most in this area.
Take a medicine-dispensing syringe (available at most drug store for a couple of bucks), fill it with water, place it down the large hole directly on the filter and over the clogged cells, and squirt the water vigorously. It will clean out the honeycomb cells like magic.
This is awesome. Thank you for posting this. I was trying to find a solution to this and this was the first post that came up. Very helpful. I may buy one more cartage so I have the hole covers for when I shake everything out. But that it just 1. Now I can actually have a clean shaver every day. Before I would try to stretch out how long they would last by only doing it every other day.
If you guys are getting 3-4 months out of a cartridge I can only assume that you are sealing it each time and/or cleaning it very little and not maintaining the razor properly. But, if that works for you then good for you. I would prefer to clean it more often and not have to deal with the extra hassle of sealing and unsealing it each time.
There is not much more risk of splashing our solution vs the cartridge solution. And, although this debate seems long, no one is really going to any great measures to come up with a replacement solution. In fact, our solution(s) are common products that can be attained easier and cheaper than the Braun cartridges that you are buying. I don’t see them in local stores to purchase. Over the long term, depending on how often one chooses to clean and shave, one might save the cost of the razor or at least some of that cost. . Since we are looking at all possible solutions, we should also discuss the option of the cheapest places to get them. So, where are you getting them at $4 each including tax and shipped if the case? In bulk? On Ebay? I think on Amazon, they are a little over $5 each +s&h.I think I calculated about $1.75 gallon vs one cartridge that holds relatively little (6 ounces at most) at $5 each + s&h. This comes down to 67 cents an ounce at best IF you can get them at $4 to you in total cost to maybe a $1 and ounce at $6 each vs my solution at 1.4 cents and ounce.
However, clearly all of us who bought the rather expensive razor can also afford the cartridges, but you are missing the point. This is almost like solving a puzzle to beat companies at their game to get more money out of you after the sale of their product. Here, Braun forces you (or at least tries with the rest of us) to have to keep buying their cartridges. Some Canon printers sold inexpensively had print heads that to be replaced after x time/prints at a cost of about $80 or the printer would no longer print. There are other examples but you get the point.
This is merely a fun interesting collective exchange to beat the man and in doing so, maybe save a few bucks towards the cost of their razor. If you can’t see that then I guess you are one of those people that buy the first thing sold to them without thought and what could add up to be significant money when this thinking is applied to every product and service out there that can be had far cheaper and easily without really much “fuss”. I’ll let you get back to buying things like more expensive gas across the street or brand name prescriptions over the far cheaper generic replacements that are the same thing.
Back to the discussion, I came across this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4440363_refill-braun-electric-razor-cartridge.html
Note the comment of not to empty out through the large hole because of the filter.
I have used three cartridges in a 12 month period. That package costs £13 on Amazon UK inc postage to replace or about one UK pound a month. Why fuss about that? As said above, one daily shave does not mean a new cartridge is required monthly.
For the glycerin, I add several dashes of Aqua Velva to the denatured. It has glycerin, DA, and the manly smell good in it already. Works great
The lengths you cheapasses will go through to save 2 cents makes me laugh my ass off!! Don’t worry about the money you will spend after you spill this on the floor, damage some furniture, splash some in your eyes, or burn down your house. For about 3 minutes in work you can find several ways to get each cartridge for less than $4.00 a piece. The razor does not need to be cleaned after each use so the cartridge lasts between 60 and 90 days. Do that math. Sad life some of you lead!! But thanks for the comedy!!
I) I went to Walgreens and CVS, but did not see it, but I will try again. I did find it online including Amazon. It is also common in many face and hand creams but I also wanted it in pure form.
2) I have the Barbicide, but have NOT used/tested yet. I just tried the isopropyl rubbing alcohol and have experienced this problem. Maybe it is coincidence, maybe not. I don’t like the residue left, but that may be partially due to lack of pure glycerin or a lubricant. Isopropyl alcohol be it 50%, 60%, or 70% IS in fact water based.I don’t think water is the problem.
3) Barbicide has been used to disinfect barber and salon scissors, combs, and MOTORIZED clipper heads safely for decades. We’re not talking about dunking the motors that are sealed and away from the heads.It has extra germicides to kill aids, infections, bacteria etc and is also used in hospitals. Still, I would wipe the heads with a cloth before using. It also has rust inhibitors! This would probably mean it has some lubricant properties already. AND, it IS mostly isopropyl alcohol based! It is concentrated so it goes a long way when mixed with the water and I think the lowest cost possible solution at about $1.75/gallon which was the point of this thread/blog.
Like I said, I am interested in comparing the possible solutions with respect to price and effectiveness while remaining safe. I’ll report back after a few more goes with the glycerin added to the isopropyl alcohol until it runs out and I try the Barbicide.
Re Mr. Mike:
Several things in your post are troubling but first you can get glycerin at any good drug store like Walgreens in the first aid section. It is dirt cheap–about $1 for a couple of ounces.
I assume you are diluting your Barbicide with water, since if it was with alcohol you wouldn’t need to buy the Barbicide. The water can’t be good for the shaver and I can see it rusting parts in the cutter and foil or even getting into the motor. If the motor, then the shaver is probably done for.
The alcohol is used as a cleaning solvent, not as a sanitizing agent, though it probably does both. You say “wait for the razor to dry before using on the skin”. But the evaporation of water or alcohol from the cleaning solution leaves all the chemicals behind. The chemicals do not evaporate.
I’d rethink using Barbicide and go with isopropyl rubbing alchol.
Ok, my last Braun cartridge finally ran out. I started to try the rubbing alcohol formula, but I am experiencing it jamming up. I mean shortly after starting shaving it stops. I start it again and it soon stops. Very frustrating to try to shave. I tried a couple of drops of the Braun light machine oil to the head and it helped very briefly and then returns. I don’t know if the rubbing alcohol without lubricant is causing more gunk to build up in the head or what is now causing this to happen.
I want to add glycerin, but cannot find it in the stores. Can someone please tell me if any chain store sells it or do you buy it online? I will try to add silicone in the mean time.
I also just bought a half gallon of Barbicide with antirust lubricants in it from Sally’s Beauty with there industry card for $15. When diluted 2oz to 1 gallon, it is even far cheaper than rubbing alcohol and more of a germicide and disinfectant. For a dirt cheap knockoff of Barbicide, I will later try Hydrox Labs Hydroxicide. It is about $13 per gallon with card from Sally’s. But, you have to make sure the razor is dry from these germicides before using on the skin. I am interested in comparing these 3.
Sir Thomas, AGREED!
I am know beginning to think the joke is on me, could people really be this stupid?
I am glad to see a few people with some semblance of common sense chiming in at last. This thread is peopled in part by LOSERS WITH POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS SUGGESTIONS. One cannot help but wonder if some of these people are doing this intentionally. But that is an exploration for another yashwata thread, and hopefully soon.
Mr. Kessler. Lighten up, please. It’s just people’s faces that are going to be falling off. :~)
Trentblase, correct, however anyone claiming that slx denatured is an alternative is nuts! “denatured” means that chemicals have been added to make it non-drinkable, one of those chemicals added to slx can be gasoline, why would anyone use anything but rubbing alcohol? Like its that expensive? a poster above says he will use slx because it is cheap, he is an idiot! Cheaper! who the hell buys a 200+ shaver and won’t spend the measly 6-8 bucks a month for the solution!!!!
AND PLUS I POSTED A LINK TO THE INGREDIENTS THAT ARE IN THE BRAUN SOLUTON!!!!
DUMBASSSSSSS…..
Mark, rubbing alcohol IS denatured. Someone asked why use denatured instead of Everclear… the answer is to avoid paying the related taxes/duties charged for drinking alcohol.
I had been using rubbing alcohol on my old Braun for years with no problems. When I got a new Braun (I needed an extra) the base would give me the red empty light. Silly me, I was looking all over for optical sensors. Thanks to this board for giving me the conductivity sensor info!
I hate to use such strong language but apparently there are not many bright people contributing to this post. there have been too many STUPID, IRRESPONSIBLE comments being made on this post.
DENATURED ALCOHOL HAS POISONOUS CHEMICALS ADDED TO IT—-DO-NOT-USE-IT. It will make you sick!
USE RUBBING ALCOHOL
GEEZ, GET IT TOGETHER! don’t be stupid and uninformed by a bunch of irresponsible people that are not doing due diligence and trying too be cheap and a chemist at the same time.
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem00/chem00102.htm
wow. I can’t believe I just read all of those comments. I am so glad that I found this forum. I’m going to have to agree with the majority of you all and go with the SLX. It’s not going to harm anyone and it’s definitely the cheapest, which is the whole point of this concoction, correct? Everclear and others might be SLIGHTLY preferable, but you’re voiding the whole point of this by paying for them. Just listen to the facts. Most of these people are getting the job done with the SLX and glyserine.
I use wintergreen rubbing alcohol, you numbskulls. It works fine. Just shake the cartridge out when you clean it, rinse till all the gook is gone, and use that. Actually, I mix wintergreen with regular cuz it’s a bit strong on the old schnozzola.
Since cheap rubbing alcohol already has your water content, why the heck would you want to do any sort of mixing?
I’m the one with the hair-clogged holes underneath the pump intake. I’ve finally found something that works to clean them out. I’ve soaked the intake hole–and pushed the solution through the screen–in about a half teaspoon of liquid detergent and a few drops of water and let is stand for an hour. Then I put it through a dishwasher cycle directly over a water nozzle. Cleaned out about half the gunk and I’m sure another session with the dishwasher would get out the rest.
Mr Mike has the Drano answer
Many thanks Mr Mike
Nair ‘for men’ it is.
Draino is made up of hypochlorous acid and is an acute corrosive health hazard. It can cause burns and tissue damage to the skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. You would probably be better off with Nair and rinsing it well.
http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/safety/MSDS/DRANO%20LIQUID.htm
http://www.nairformen.com/
Peter, my WordPress template is not displaying commenters’ URLs for some reason. But links in the body of the comment work.
The PG weblink seems to have been removed?
The MSDS is easily found, why mess with all the crazy concoctions?
link to MSDS.
Click to access Clean_&_Renew.pdf
Ethanol/Alcohol Denatured (should use rubbing alcohol bought at drug store).
DO NOT USE DENATURED ALCOHOL BOUGHT AT A HARDWARE STORE!!!! IT HAS OTHER CHEMS IN IT!!!
Use Rubbing alcohol it is prepared and used primarily for topical application!
Here is the link to Limonene
http://www.greenterpene.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=001005527&Click=20445&gclid=CMyB5ODrkJ4CFchn5QodR2xQpg
Here is the link to Citral.
http://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/citral-essential-oil-p-216.html?osCsid=d72c57466a054a8a7050ab3179699fbc
FYI, Here is the msds on the clean&renew solution
I say go for it. I doubt that it will work based on how poorly it has worked on my drains. I would go with the liquid Draino. As long as you rinse it, I would think it would be fine. I would try it, but mine isn’t clogged yet. So, you do it and report back.
Just to ‘flush out’ the facts … why not Drano,
Drano?! Oprah would tell you,”Don’t go their girlfriend!”
If you used Drano, you’d want to be VERY sure you got it all rinsed out.
Anyone tried a Drano solution or something similar that dissolves hair?
I figured this would happen eventually. I have the same problem refilling ink cartridges. Eventually, they clog. With ink cartridges, I can sometimes force water in the opposite direction of normal flow and that will work awhile. Sounds like you have tried that. Have you tried compress air?
Does anybody have a solution to this problem? I probably haven’t cleaned my cartridge well enough in the past but now I find that about 4 or 5 of the hexagonal wells on the base of the cartridge direclty underneath the large hole are compacted with hair debris and cannot be cleaned no matter what I do. I’ve tried lots of hot water rinses and alcohol rinses as well as trying to gently push at the globs through the fine mesh screen. Too much of this and the pump can’t suck up enough fluid to clean. I know I can start a new cartridge but does anyone have an idea?
I’ve had the Braun 8595 for a couple years, and while I did find the refill cartridges a bit pricey, that wasn’t my real problem with them since one of them lasts me a couple months. My real problem with them was that they are hard to get around here! I can either order them online or drive 30 minutes to Walmart to get them…not my idea of fun!
After readng this page, I went to my local Safeway (a two minute walk away), and got Safeway brand green 70% isopropyl alcohol. They color it green because it includes synthetic wintergreen oil and glycerin.
This only costs me $2.24 for 473 mL (2.5ish refills), is extremely convenient (no mixing, and easy to buy), and smells great.
Thank you yashwata and all the commenters!
PS: I add a bit of tap water to make sure it reads as full.
Peter, reading that PDF, isopropyl doesn’t sound tremendously toxic. If you get in in your eyes, they’ll burn until you wash it out. If you drink it, you’ll throw up. It’s not *dangerous* the way, for example, kerosene is. And, as others have pointed out, the shaver is actually *dry* when you take it out of the charger. There isn’t any alcohol on it. So you’re not putting isopropyl on your skin — not a significant amount, anyway. If you start breaking out in rashes, I will have to revise this statement — otherwise, I think it’s safe.
In saying that, it’s cheap!!:
AUD$54 for 5L
http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=692
My research on isopropyl alcohol is that it’s bad, bad stuff…
Check out:
Click to access MSDSISOALC.pdf
particularly, sections 10 & 11 of the document….
are we sure we want to use this stuff?
Oh my gosh, you had been cleaning it manually, that’s funny. Well, don’t feel too bad, I have been buying refills for two years and about $6 a month. So far, my 91% Isopropyl is working fine, but really too early to tell since it’s only been a few days.
You guys, thanks to the internet and Google (by which means you were invited into my cyber-home)are quite amazing. A few years ago a very close friend gave (yes, GAVE!) me a Braun 8995 “360 complete”. Having shaved with earlier models for years, I behaved as normal, shaving at will, brushing the head when I felt like and recharging as needed. Earlier this year I noticed a curious LED message in the window that indicated the battery status. “What’s intensive cleaning”, I asked myself. Self decided to look into the box and discovered a stand and an insertible cartridge. Having since used up over half the cartridge solution, I decided to Google ‘braun shaver cleaning’ and there you all were waiting to enlighten this sadly uninformed shaver. Now I just need to decide which of your many interesting formulations to adopt. Robust thanks for being there!! I expect my shaver is also breathing a sigh of relief.
After reading every post, and not wanting to go to the store, I refilled my freshly cleaned cartridge with what I had under the sink. 91% Isopropyl alcohol, nothing else. Any reason why we shouldn’t use the 91%?
Filled to 3/4 full, and I didn’t need to add any water. Hopefully it will keep working and I won’t get the dreaded red light prematurely. I really don’t care about fragrance, but I will probably add some glycerin which I also have on hand (somewhere).
By the way, these are the same ingredients I use for my “swimmers ear” formula, plus hydrogen peroxide – 1/3 each. Make sure to use the diluted version of the hydrogen peroxide you get at the drug store. Works great, I haven’t had a problem with an ear infection in 30+ years, and I use to get them all the time.
Thanks for a great website.
Total Cartridge Size = 170 ml
DIRECTIONS:
1.) Clean old cartridge with 70% Isopropyl alcohol
2.) Add 3 ml of Lemon oil
3.) Add 3 ml of glycerin
4.) Add 2 ml of water
5.) Add 70% Isopropyl alchohol to 3/4 of the top of the cartridge
COST ANALYSIS:
16oz (473ml) 70% Isopropyl alcohol = $1
16oz (473ml) Glycerin = $10
16oz (473ml) Lemon oil = $8
Cost Savings on one unit
Normal = $11
Homebrew = $0.81
Savings = $10.19 per refill
(3/473)*10 + (3/473)*8 + (164/473)*1 (Refill) + (164/473)*1 (Clean)
Best internet read I’ve had in a long time, great problem solving, really well done.
I just bought a Braun 9595, and was dreading ordering refills, but now I can’t wait for the clean and renew cartridge to empty! I’ll probably try Bob’s formula (from July 23rd) first, but add some water as later noted.
Firt of all I thank all of you.
I tried 70% isopropyl-alcohol with about Water 20 ml.
It works great.
Actually, I wasn’t thinking personal lube either, but now that I think about it, it may be the safest form. There’s a good chance that the other forms may have additives that are may not be good for skin contact that should be checked out.
I stand corrected — it doesn’t have to be personal lubricant. A shaver is not a person.
I have always worked on my own cars, so I am very familiar with silicone spray, but for some reason that did not cross my mind,thanks. I was first thinking that you were using pure silicone sealant for caulk or gaskets in the gel form. I will try your formula but I am also going to try the Barbicide which has ant-rust and some form of lubricant in it as well I think. I will also try adding silicone to it and see how it goes. It’s a good idea that we all break down, if we can, what we are using chemically as Doug pointed out some substances shouldn’t be fooled with and others may have chemical reactions.Safety is more important than savings.
For the silicone lubricant I just bought a spay can of the stuff at Canadian Tire. You could buy the “personal lube” variety if you want but since you are lubricating a mechanical device you might as well use the version designed for this. If you don’t live in Canada you can probably find Silicone spray at walmart in the automotive section — it is used to lubricate door seals in cars and for bike chains, etc.
Silicone is relitily harmless — hence the reason it is used in “personal lubes” as well as mechanical lubes.
I chose silicone because I read somewhere else that this is what braun was using. However, if you can’t find it then i would use a few drops of light machine oil (also called 3-in-1 oil or sometimes sewing machine oil). All of them should work the same.
I noticed that some people have been having trouble with the level sensor when using home made fluids. This is probably because most alc solutions are made with De-ionized water. DI water is the same as regular water but has no salt ions in it. Unlike tap water, DI water is generally not a good electrical conductor and so the level sensor might not be working right. This would explain why adding some tap water seems to fix the problem. Tap water has salt ions in it that make it conductive.
If the level sensor does not work with the iso alc right out of the bottle then either add a bit of tap water or a tiny tiny tiny pinch of table salt. The very small pinch of salt won’t cause rusting — don’t worry. It will just add back the conductive sodium and clorine ions that were removed from the water that was mixed with the Iso alcahol when it was made at the plant.
Hope this helps.
Google silicone personal lubricant. I believe that this is the kind of thing that most of our commenters are talking about.
Where do you find liquid silicone? Or are you squeezing/heating pure silicone in a tube?
You know what? That makes a lot of sense!! Thank you.
I use 70% isoprop and a few drops of silicone. It has been working fine and is really cheap. I don’t see why anyone would use everclear since you are paying for all the consumption taxes for drinkable alc and all you want is a cleaning solution.
There is no rocket science here. The solution is used to disolve the oils that are in your wiskers in the shaver and wash out the unit. The small amount of silicon disolves in the alc solution and then when the shaver dries the silicone is left behind on the blades.
It shouldn’t really matter what alc you use. It is never in contact with your skin since is all evaporates off the blades before you use it. Isoprop rubbing alc is very cheap and seems to be the best choice.
Click my name at the right for a pdf version of the owners manual. See page 9 about lubricant for the shaver.
The lubricant for these shavers comes from the oil on your face. In fact you can read in the owners manual that “if your skin is very dry, and notice a reduced operation time, add a drop of light machine oil to the foil”
Adding oil or other lubricant to the cleaning solution will reduce the life of the pump inside the cleaning unit.
I suggest that no one use methanol, or ethanol which is denatured with methanol. Methanol is efficiently absorbed from fumes, and the shaver cleaning cycle heats the shaver to dry off the alcohol. This means the methanol is being vaporized. Methanol is very poisonous, and methanol poisoning is cumulative. All of this is easily verifiable on the web.
Bottom line: Methanol is neurotoxic, volatile, absorbed through vapor, and our shavers heat off the alcohol. Unless you leave your unit outside during the cleaning cycle or have a fume hood in your bathroom (I’m not judging), don’t use methanol in the shave solution!
I used Bob’s instructions a few messages ago (July 23): 3 ml glycerin, 3 ml pure lemon oil (‘NOW’ brand), 70% rubbing alcohol for the rest. After pouring the thoroughly mixed cocktail into the cleaned cartridge, the red “cartridge” indicator kept tripping until I added about 2 ml of water to the mixture. After that it’s working perfectly!
Now now, let’s not pile it on Braun with a knee-jerk reaction. Their cost includes making the container, paying salaries of people just like us who have families and mortgages to support plus all the taxes that have to be paid to support bloated governments. Most businesses are lucky to get away with a 2% profit margin.
Let’s think it through first. What we’re trying to do here is not blaming Braun for their cost of doing business but how to do it ourselves cheaply by bypassing a lot of the issues a large corporation has to deal with. Thank Braun for the container.
Hi,
I used to be an organic chemist. I did work with a GC and GC-MS. Surely someone out there has access to a similar unit so we can find out what braun are using and just make it ourselves.
Enough speculation everyone. It is not hard to actually find out the answer. And then we don’t have to be held hostage by the company and their screw the customer attitude.
Please someone just publish a 99% formula.
Thanks, dan.
On a related note, has anyone developed a recipe for Williams ‘Lectric Preshave?
Make that 2oz for 32oz of water, 1 oz was for the Barbicide plus not regular Barbicide and I goofed on the math. 1 oz to 32 oz would have made 4x as much or 33 gallons (33 x 128/128oz). The correct 2 oz to 32 oz will still make 17 gallons (34 x 64/128oz) And at $30/17 useable gallons= $1.76/gallon!!! I guess you can use/add the lemon oil or glycerin if you wanted.
Interesting!
How about Barbicide?, you know the classic blue disinfectant Hospitals have used for years as well as barber shops and hair salons for cleaning and disinfecting combs, scissors, and razors! You can buy a concentrated gallon for $30 and they suggest 32 oz of water for only 1 oz of concentrated Barbicide!This would make 8.25 gallons! You can get 2 half gallons with Sallys beauty supply for $40 or $30 with their member card. They also sell it online. At $30 it would equal about $3.64/gallon!The MSDS from the maker King Research states that it is mostly isopropyl alcohol with other added ingredients.Thoughts and comments?
Patrick: 1. I let the blinkenlights tell me what to do. That way I don’t have to think. 2. I wondered recently whether my blades were dull (after a couple years of use); ordered a replacement assembly from Amazon; experienced little or no improvement. I guess that’s a good thing. 3. Never thought of replacing the battery. It’s been working fine. In general the shaver wants to be cleaned long before it needs to recharge.
i think i love the internet more than bob above;
yash this site is magnificent….. what about frequency of changing these fluids? do we wait for the light or do it earlier? what about brushing the blades; where are people getting spare cutters? is the rechargable battery removable and replaceable? i just bought my first braun, a 390cc; i adore it after only three weeks!
Hey guys I quit reading the majority of the posts but let me share with you another option that works for me. I have refilled my cartridges with Equate brand mouthwash, the citrus flavored knock off of Listerine.
It works great and no issues with the housing unit not working. the best part is the stuff is less than $4.00 for 1.5 liters!
After reading the posts here I went with the following mix, which worked fine:
70% Isopropyl Alcohol 130ml (4.4 oz; 0.55 cups)
Water 30 ml (2 tablespoons)
Glycerin 1 teaspoon
Cologne 1 teaspoon
I found the Glycerin at Michael’s a craft store in with the cake baking supplies.
I poured out the old fluid and flushed with the Isopropyl (it’s cheap enough). I added the above ingredients and every thing worked perfectly the first time I started the unit up.
No real new ingredients or processes; just wanted to let everyone know what worked for me.
Thanks all!
Dan again here. Now if I used Isopropyl at $2 a quart plus the aftershave at $5 a bottle (which would last years) I would get a worst case a factor of 9.6, close enough.
I’ll try the Isopropyl as well.
After reading most of the replies, I got a 750 ml bottle of Everclear – $16 and a small bottle of Aqua Velva after-shave, $5 which is made up of SD Alcohol 40-B, Water, Glycerin and Fragrance which seemed just right. I just used a dash.
The Braun cartridges hold 170 ml so I can make 4.4 refills from the Everclear bottle.
Total cost $21. The Braun refills locally cost $12, so for 4.4 cartridges the cost would be $52.80 a savings of $31.80
So at $4.77 a refill, I’m saving a factor of 2. Not too bad. Anyone else do the math and got better numbers? Would be interesting. A factor of 10 would be great.
The mix works perfectly by the way. The shaver doesn’t know the difference.
@all
I am using a BRAUN Shaver since more than 10 years and it always made me angry to pay the money for the “refresh” cartridge. I made some trials with my own mixture and will start to sell this soon. The price will be 40 to 50% less than the original.
Now I am looking for some test candidates that would like to get a bottle of my mixture free of charge (only shipping costs need to be payed!) and maybe also people that are intrested in selling the product outside Germany!
Please mail me if you are intrested: refill@viell.net
@Admin: THIS SHOULD NOT BE A COMMERCIAL ADVERT! I HOPE ITS OK!
I have been refilling mine for about a year. I rinse then out with hot water a few times till all the grunge is gone from inside. then I let it dry for a few days till it has nothing inside . I might even put it out side where it can be 100 deg on a summer day. Then I fill it up with the home depot or I bought ethanol from walmart too. I add 10 drops of glycerin and 10 drops of lemon oil not extract. This works perfectly.
Here’s my formula and reasoning:
1. Buy the following. Quart of 70% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (about $2 at drug store). Bottle of glycerin (about $1 at drug store). Fragrance of your choice. I use pure Lemon Oil (NOW brand. 4oz for about $8 plus shipping that I bought on internet). Medicine dispensing syringe and rubber bottle stopper set (about $3 at drug store).
2. After cleaning old cartridge, dispense 4ml of Lemon Oil. This is a strong amount but I like it. 2 or 3 ml would probably be enough for most people.
3. Add 2 ml glycerin. If you reduce Lemon Oil, increase the glycerin by a like amount for lubrication.
4. Water is not needed since 70% alcohol has enough.
5. Add alcohol to within about 3/4 of top of cartridge. No need to measure accurately.
This formula is cheap and works great. The one “expensive” element, the Lemon Oil, will last almost forever.
Before you read I am no chemist, scientist, or englishitist. Just a man with a computer. Uterly scary huh. Anyway just bought the 8995 (had the 8585 previously and the reason I bought another Braun) and behold the Clean & Renew Refill ingredients right on the box.
*SD-Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.) – “Alcohol is used as a fast drying solvent in many products, especially cosmetics and hair sprays.
When the word alcohol is used alone, it refers to ethanol, the alcohol found in wine, beer, and distilled spirits.
When used in products not licensed for drinking, ethanol is usually denatured. Such alcohols are called denatured alcohol, or “specially denatured” alcohol. You will often see “SD alcohol” mentioned on a label, sometimes followed by a number and letter, such as “40-B”. This is the designation given by the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms to the denaturing method used.” (yahoo)
*Perfume – Self explanatory
*Limonen – d-Limonene is the major component of the oil extracted from citrus rind. When citrus fruits are juiced, the oil is pressed out of the rind. This oil is separated from the juice, and distilled to recover certain flavor and fragrance compounds. The bulk of the oil is left behind and collected. This is food grade d-Limonene……steam extractor. This extracts more of the oil from the peel. When the steam is condensed, a layer of oil floats on the surface of the condensed water. This is technical grade d-Limonene….
….By combining d-Limonene with a surfactant package, a water diluting and rinsible solution can be made. In most cases these products are used in the institutional and household settings in place of caustic and other water based cleaners. A concentrated solution of a d-Limonene/surfactant solution can be made to be diluted before use, or pre-diluted solutions can be formed. The use concentrations of d-Limonene in these situations are usually 5-15%. In general these solutions are used as spray and wipe cleaners. The water dilutable solutions can also be used in industrial settings where a water rinse of the parts is desired to remove any residue which may remain.
d-Limonene is a very versatile chemical which can be used in a wide variety of applications. It is extremely safe and more effective than typical cleaning solutions. (Floridachemical.com)
*Citral-Citral, also known as geranial (citral a) or neral (citral b), occurs in the volatile oils of lemon grass, lemon, orange, limetta, and pimento. It is one of the main characteristic flavours in the citrus family besides limonene .
Structure of citral a (geranial) and b (neral)
Citral (C10H16O) is used in lemon and citrus flavours in confectionary, soft drinks and in many cosmetics, such as after shaves and body lotions. The flavour of geranial is more intense than the flavour of neral, but both have a very similar lemon flavour. Citral is also used in the chemical synthesis of vitamin A, but has no vitamin activity.
Citral is not or poorly soluble in water, but readily soluble in alcohol or oils. (food-info.net)
So….
Citral is the zesty lemon smell
Limonen is the oil/cleaning solution/citrus smell
Perfume is the “brand” smell
and the SD is the sterilizer/cleaner/what Braun uses to screw you in the *ss to keep buying their care package more frequently.
So………….
Now I forget the last posts of who came the closest. But that is the best replication for the Clean $ Renew fluid.
Hmm..Just need to find the right ratios. Hmmm..wonder were the water part comes in? Hmmm..since Limonen is not disolvable, does it stick to the metal somehow during cleaning? just enough to lubricate it for 18 months. Hmm…wonder if you add a touch more it could last longer? or break stuff?
If you have any reason to argue please reread first paragraph. If you would like to add, please do.
I used straight Denatured Alcohol plus a splash of after shave. It takes many power cycles to clear the “empty” error, but once it’s cleared, it works fine. I doubt it’s because any of the liquid being “too fine” as the original cartridge held only denatured alcohol and fragrance anyway.
Thanks for the tips!
Maybe someone has been through this;
I have been refilling my Braun cleaning cartridge for the synchro base station unit with methylated spirits (that’s what its called here in Australia), AKA denatured alcohol, for years. However, I always have trouble initially as the synchro base station almost always reports an error. Eventually it begins to work but after many power cycles.
Does anyone have any tips on getting it working from the word go? Is the fresh denatured alcohol too fine for the unit therefore reports an error? Is there a way of disabling the error on the synchro unit?
Any tips from people who have been through this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dan.
The following is a link to P&G’s MSDS for Clean & Renew. They own Braun. It gives the components for the chemical makeup. The problem is that it only states that ethanol is 60-100%. The other major component is water. This relates to what proof alcohol it is. 60% = 120 proof. The highest ethanol content would likely only be 190 proof, or 95%. I will try and determine the actual ethanol content from the specific gravity, or a water analysis. The key to matching their formula is what are percentages for ethanol and water.
Click to access Clean_&_Renew.pdf
Thank you for confirming on that Yash!
Jerry,
I use a pre shave lotion made by Williams called Lectric shave. I even tried something similar from CLINIQ ( expenvive version of same thing)..>Does any one recommend any other pre-shaves?? I am used to razor shave and when I moved to shaver I hated it for the fact I spent over $280.00 for the puslonic 9595 to get all that pain cuz I use to shave straight on the skin with out any pre-shave. Later on when I found the Lectric Shave I started to love my investment.
Any better ideas on pre-shaves are appreciated.
Denatured is toxic. Isopropyl is much milder. Don’t worry.
Out of curiosity, when you state that Denatures alcohol is less toxic, does that mean the Isopropyl alcohol is more toxic? cuz I am scared now as I use Isopropyl alcohol.. :-(
(plz delete my previous post, cuz thats a wrong statement)
Damon, I switched to Everclear because it seems less toxic than denatured alcohol. The only things in it are alcohol (which, in limited quantities, is safe to drink) and water. Denatured alcohol is sold as an industrial solvent and can have horrible things in it like benzene and toluene.
Hi,
I’ve really enjoyed reading about this situation and all of the different minds coming together to try and beat the system…there should be a website dedicated to these specific types of consumer predicaments.
I was wondering why Yashwata changed from the Denatured Alcohol from Home Depot to the Everclear at the alcohol store. Does it work better or is it just less expensive? Thanks.
My Braun Pulsonic came with a vial of oil labeled ‘appliance oil’. Do you think this would be an acceptable lubricant to be used in refilling? Braun states that the oil should be used in the instance of using the tap to clean the shaver head. They recommend spreading a few drops across the foil after manually rinsing in a sink.
I use 60% Isopropyl Alcohol from costco.. 2 X 32oz = $1.99 or so. I had the sam problem as others posted, it worked fine for the first time and from there on the red light as empty or yello light as half keep coming up and adding water did all the trick…thnx guyz for sharing that!! For perfume part, I have lot lot of samples that I get from Macys when ever I buy a cologne and I just put that sample perfume in there its working like a charm.
Well, I read all the formulae, etc. for refilling Braun cartridges. Too much voodoo.
I mark the level when I put my first cart in and in just ran out.
Sooooooooooo…….. a one gal. can of Sunnyside (used to be Parks) denatured alcohol was used to fill the cart–nothing else. The gallon goes for $12-14 locally.
One 5-ounce rinse and one 5-oz. fill. It read full immediately. Off we go.
I have been experiencing a problem with my razor where it stops running by itself while shaving. It seems like it is overheating or something. If I let it sit for a minute or so it will run for enough time to finish shaving. If I try torestart it immediately after it stops it will only run for a few seconds and shut off again. Anyone else have this problem?
Joe
So I could get 3 refills out of a $1.69 bottle (just a tad short – no problem – just add a little water) – that sounds good to me! Just so you know, it’s made by a company called CareOne. On the downside, it appears to be distributed only on the U.S. east coast at Stop&Shop, Giant, Martin’s, and Peapod supermakets(?).
ISO-BLU sounds really interesting. It’s much cheaper than Everclear. I might try this next time I refill.
Type 170 ml in ounces into Google and you get 170 ml = 5.74838386 US fluid ounces. You can use Google to convert almost any unit into almost any other unit! It’s fantastic!
Alcohol dissolves oil. This is why it is used in the base unit: it helps in cleaning the shaver head of bristles, oil, flakes of dead skin, and so on. Hydrogen peroxide does not have this property — at least not to the same extent. It will disinfect your skin, but it can also bleach your clothes. I hope this answers your question.
I just found something called “ISO-BLU” right next to the Isopropyl Alcohol in the supermarket. It’s says it contains 50% by volume of Isopropyl Alcohol and the inactive ingredients are listed as blue 1, camphor, eucalyptus, glycerin, menthol, and purified water. It cost me $1.69 for 16 fl. oz. It caught my eye because it seems to be a perfect ready-made mixture of alcohol, water and glycerin, which I gather from this thread are the key ingredients, along with some harmless additives.
Any thoughts about this? Do you think it would be OK to use this straight from the bottle, or does it need to be diluted? Does anyone know roughly how many ounces it takes to fill the cartridge?
I just bought my first Braun razor. I’m very pleased so far with its performance but I can’t believe they expect you to use and discard those plastic cartridges – how wasteful and environmentally unfriendly.
On another subject, does anyone use and recommend any powder-stick or alcohol based pre-shave products?
Question : If I just refill with peroxide, is it good ?
@ Jack: I wouldn’t worry about the dyes. The aftershave I use in my mix contains dyes as well and I have not noticed any ill-effects on my razor or its performance. When I first put together my formula, I considered using a preshave, but thrifty as I am, I wanted to use up my aftershave before going out and buying some preshave. I hope this helps.
I’ve read this thread with great interest and decided to try Mark’s formula. As I was searching my medicine cabinet for after-shave, I came across an old bottle of Williams ‘Lectric Shave. Thinking perhaps it would do as after-shave, I read the ingredients, it contains the following:
SD Alcohol 40-B
Water
Isopropyl Myristate
Fragrance
Green 5
Blue 1
Red 33
Outside of the Isopropyl Mrystate and the dyes, this looks like it could be pretty much ready-made refill for my Braun cleaning cartridge. Does anyone have any idea what that substance is and whether or not it or the dyes will hurt the shaver?
Thanks!!
Based on the information in these posts, I have put together a “recipe” that works quite well for me:
70% isopropyl alcohol – 130mL
Water – 30mL
Glycerin – 5mL (~1 teaspoon)
Aftershave – 5mL (~1 teaspoon)
The aftershave provides a very mild scent and adds some extra lubricant as it already contains some glyercin.
I use finnish denatured ethanol which is usually used for car window cleaning, it comes already with perfume as Lasol Lady brand. Works as a charm :)
I had purchased rubbing alcohol with glycerin, citrus scented from somewhere and used it for my Braun Pulsonic cleaner. Worked great. I recently ran out of the stuff and cannot find it again. (I think it may have been a Target store brand.) Anyone else run into this stuff?
I recently bought a quart of the stuff pictured at the top. I live in Canada and for some reason denatured alcohol is incredibly tough to find here so I went to the states to get it.
Worked just fine for me, rinsed out the old one with water a few times, filled it with the SLX, added a couple drops of Issey Miyake, and it’s working wonderfully.
I see no reason to stray from this mix seeing as though what I am doing is exactly what comes in the new cartridges. The alcohol pictured states right on the package that it’s safe for cleaning metals.
Why mess around with any of these other ideas (Everclear, rubbing alcohol, etc.) when there’s such an easy and inexpensive solution right there for you?
Why is denatured alcohol necessary? How about a neutral and drinkable alcohol, like vodka. That certainly wouldn’t be toxic. You could even have a little sip everytime you fill up.
has anybody tried vinegar (used in cleaning coffee machines)?
All of the alcohols are flammable. It is just how much water mixed with them that stops it from happening.
The Panasonic manual says not to clean the shaver with alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol is definitely safe, especially if diluted with water. I am intrigued by the silicone lubricant idea. I have not tried this.
the comments are informative. ive been using isopropyl
alcohol mixed 50/50 with water and some gun oil. i will
now use the same mix but omit the gun oil and put in
a few drops of sexual moisturizing lubricant. WHAT DO
YOU THINK? WILL IT BE SAFE? APPRECIATE FEEDBACK. THANKS
I use Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 91% and tap water in a 60/40 ratio. And the final ingredient is CVS Electric Razor Pre-Shave Classic using 2 or 3 squirts. It stays clean and lubed and have been doing this for over 3 years.
although i see that panasonic describes their cartridges as “non-alcoholic”
i as well would like to know if this type of refill proccess has been used with success on panasonic hydraclean cartridges. i know i am going to give it a try because for me, stores don’t sell them in my area and i order the cartridges online, which adds to my cost. This has to work on any shaver. I mean, they all say you can clean them with liquid soap and water anyway.
Riverrunners way of doing it is the way that mostly resembles the original fluid.
I use 10-12 drops of lemon essence oil into the cartridge (170ml) filled with 95% alcohol. (It needs to be 95% because otherwise the oil won’t solve itself inte the alcohol.)
Some great suggestions and comments! I’ve incorporated Das.Maus’ Everclear & orange juice solution…works great! Also, thx to Usma1976 and others for the glycerin and lemon extract or oil suggestions; and Chas_A for the insight about adding the water! The only thing I don’t understand is why use unsafe/flammable denatured or methylated alcohols, when isopropyl and ethyl alcohols are readily available, safer and cheaper. I use ethanol, water, glycerin and lemon extract (or oil). Thanks a lot, folks!
How about refilling the Panasonic arc IV. Anyone have a solution (sorry about that) for that problem?
THE PURCHASED ROUND ONE – I went out and bought:
• $ 20.10 => 750 ml bottle of 151 proof Everclear (highest proof available in Michigan)
• $ 2.29 => 2 oz (59 ml) bottle of Glycerine from Michaels (craft store)
• $ 2.99 => 0.5 oz (15 ml) bottle of Fragrance Oil (Citrus Twist flavor) from Michaels
• $ 1.99 => Eyedroppers from Michaels – to measure drops as described in other posts.
THE PURCHASE ROUND TWO (purchased about 2 weeks later)
• $ 1.00 => 12 oz (355 ml) bottle of 50% isopropyl rubbing alcohol (showing inactive ingredient as purified water. This from a dollar store.
• $ 12.00 => 2 gallon of minute maid orange juice.
CLEANING THE OLD REFILL CARTRIDGE There are 2 holes, a big one that is used to draw filtered fluid to be used to clean your razor, and a small one used to return the used fluid to the cartridge. Note that the big hole has a straw like collar that only allows fluid to be drawn from near the bottom after is passes through a fine cloth filter on the bottom of the filter.
Using water, in and out of the small hole only, I flushed and rinsed the old cartridge. Put water into the cartridge, hold the cartridge upside down using either a cap from an old cartridge or your palm and it shake a bit, then drain out of the small hole. Repeat several times until all of the old stubble is flushed out. Be careful to not be so rough as to damage the fine cloth filter.
Shake out as much water as you can, but you are not going to get it all out. That is OK, just leave the rest in there to mix with the fluid below.
FIRST ATTEMPT – 2/3 cup of Everclear, 20 drops glycerin, and 10 drops fragrance oil. It seems to be working great. But I had trouble measuring drops of glycerin, the stuff comes out of the dropper in glops and I suspect I ended up with something more like 30. I do not plan on trying to measure that stuff with a dropper again, so am throwing the droper away.
SECOND ATTEMPT – Mix up a batch of fluid. Add 2 teaspoons (9.87 ml) glycerin and 1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) fragrance into the 355 ml bottle of rubbing alcohol. You now have enough fluid for 2 refills of an old cartridge. Note that this is RUBBING alcohol that is designed to be used topically, so I don’t think it will hurt you as you would normally use your razor. I wouldn’t worry about being real precise, if you use 70% alcohol that should be OK, and if you use a bigger bottle of Rubbing alcohol, revise the glycerin and fragrance accordingly.
Mix the Everclear with the Orange juice, and consume it over a period of about 2 months. I didn’t want good Everclear to go to waste.
Enjoy !
Das.Maus
@Tim: You know, drug-store rubbing alcohol might be fine. A 50% water solution seems very different from Braun’s SD Alcohol (or Everclear) — that’s why I haven’t tried it. But it might work great. I should read through the earlier comments to see what people found.
What is wrong with plain old 50% isopropyl alcohol? I am asking because Everclear is $15 a bottle and I can only refill it 4 times, which is still kinda costly. People have posted that they have used rubbing alcohol with no issues, so why don’t you use it over Everclear? Why was it not your first choice. Is it more toxic? I ask you because you seem to be the only one online to go to on the subject.
Hi folks,
Here in Germany are the Braun Products about 50% more expensive than in the US. Therefore I am really thinking of brewing my own cleaning liquid.
I am using white 91% ethanol (normally used for disinfection and muscle scrub) and some drops of water + for the smell a little bit of my clear after shave. There is the cleaning of the ethanol + the good smell of the after shave with the little bit of lubricant in it.
Is somebody else using after shave as an “ethanol neutralizer” and lubricant ingredient?
Hi folks,
Here in Germany are the Braun Products about 50% more expensive than in the US. Therefore I am really thinking of brewing my own cleaning liquid.
I am using white 91% ethanol (normally used for disinfection and muscle scrub) and some drops of water + for the smell a little bit of my clear after shave. There is the cleaning of the ethanol + the good smell of the after shave with the little bit of lubricant in it.
Is somebody else using after shave as an “ethanol neutralizer” and lubricant ingredient?
In Greece we can buy 93% ethyl alcohol (blue color) for as much as 0.60 euros per 500ml.
It’s called generaly “Lighting Alcohol” in Greece and u can buy it in S/M or drugstores.
The solution comes from many different distillers and contains ussualy: turpentine oil or methanol+ turpentine oil depending on the destiller, not mentioning though their percentage in the solution.
Those containing turpentine oil are taged only with the High flamable sign and those containing methanol+ turpentine oil are taged as Highly flamable and the Toxic sign.
Their smell is rather nasty but i still think they could be used as a refill for my Braun cartriges.
I would realy apricciate your oppinion on this?
I really love the internet
@Yashwata, undrinkable is correct. I omitted it.
As ethanol can be drinkable like beer or whisky, governments asks adding some methanol or other materials in ethanol to prevent drinking. So, SD alcohol is never drinkable!
But if Everclear contains 49% of methanol, it might be better to get one with higher content of ethanol or isoprppyl alcohol that does not evaporate easily. I think 90-95% of ethanol seems better. I think it would be available in Walmart or other markets like Home Depot, Office Depot or Builder’s Square… etc.
Thank you for your idea. My refilled catridge works excellent!
Does anyone know how to find Everclear or something similar in Canada?
Tnx
@Taihong Kim: Your first sentence is not correct. SD alcohol DOES NOT mean pure ethanol. As I said in my original post, ‘denatured’ means ‘undrinkable’ — in other words, toxic “denaturants” have been added. Wikipedia says: “In the United States … SD stands for ‘specifically denatured’ and XX is the formula used in the denaturing process that specifies the denaturants. These formulas for denatured alcohol are found in 27 CFR part 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations.” Checking spectrumchemical.com I see that even “completely” denatured alcohol contains methanol, isopropanol, and methyl isobutyl ketone (see https://webstore.spectrumchemical.com/MSDS/A3400.pdf). This is nothing like the genuine pure ethanol you have access to in your lab. The easiest way for U.S. consumers to get what you are using — pure ethanol and water and nothing else — is to buy Everclear.
SD alcohol means pure ethanol. It is also called as ethyl alcohol (C2H5OH). It is bigger than methanol (CH3-OH) but smaller than Isopropyl alcohol(C3H7OH).
In this case, methyl alcohol is more volatile and more flammable.. So it is better not to use it. Instead use ethanol or isopropyl alcohol.
As I am using pure ethanol for the laboratory purpose, I also had same phenomena of changing into yellow light and empty & no work.
Then I added 7-8 ml of water in it, and it did work completely. So it means water content is critical for the measurements of circuit and solution levels.
After repeated use, compositional change occurs and it is detected as changes of catridge level.
Add some but precise levels (8 – 10 ml) as recommended.. THanks..
Taihong
Can Methyl Hydrate be used?
HUZZAH! Adding a little water did the trick, thanks so much.
dale,
Appreciate your comment but you know, you can clean the shaver with water too, as it says in the manual for the Braun non-self cleaner shavers. The key is to let it dry out completely. The fluid is only in contact during cleaning–it passes through a piston to the blades, and then recedes once the cleaning is done. They do not sell denatured alcohol in New York–it is against the law. I guess a leftover from prohibition (you can drink it)? I agree it is likely better to avoid water–but whaddya gonna do, eh? I think the blades will dull before the stainless oxidizes.
AndyK
never dilute alcohol with water.
that will rust the metal parts of the razor that come in contact with the cleaner.
isopropyl is not the same as denatured. do not use isopropyl.
sd40 alcohol does not mean diluted with 60% water. it is another word for denatured.
limonen, citral are listed ingredients on the braun package. essentially it is a degreaser/cleaner and probably to act as a scent
Chas_A,
Thanks, you know I did do this as it was the only thing I had not tried and it worked–got on to post and saw your comment. I did an ABA design and, yes, it is the presence of water which makes it work. I agree that it must measure impedence to determine whether the liquid is low (or perhaps too dirty) to conduct properly–rather ingenious way of measuring volume and dirt level simultaneously. As there are two holes in the refill cartridge, it would be easy to meaure this between the two points. I wondered why there was that second little hole on the top–that must be it!
I have not tried the glycerin yet, but I will.
AndyK-
I too, have had the exact same issues as you.
I added some tap water to the 91% Iso and now it works ok.
I surmize that there is an electrical circuit that detects the conductivity of the solution.
I did this once using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, Braun shaver lubricant (I had an old bottle) and lemon extract. It worked fine the first time, but now I too am having the problem mentioned by another with the red light coming on and it not working. It REFUSES!! I have tried varying levels of fluid as I thought perhaps I had flooded it. I tried putting the cartridge in/out, plugging and unplugging, letting it dry out overnight, doing it again, etc. Just can’t get it going. Frustrating as it worked once. Any tips would be appreciated. I do ot think this thing is so sophisticated that it has any kind of sensor. Any engineering guys out there want to figure this one out? Thanks!
I have been using my own cleaning fluid for about a month now and have had good luck with it.
I used a mix of Denatured Alcohol, Water, clear colorless After Shave and a clear colorless light machine oil.
The mix was 60% Alcohol, 40% Water, a few drops of After Shave and one drop of Oil.
The oil did not mix with the solution and was visible in one of the openings of the cartridge. After cleaning the oil was still visible but the volume seemed a slight amount less.
To clean the used cartridge I simply flushed it out using my bathroom sink faucet forcing warm water through each of the openings.
This solution seems to work as well as the original solution and has not caused any harm to my shaver, cleaning base or my face.
I tried isopropyl-alcohol, and it works fine since years.
I wouldn’t bother to much about that lubricant, cause of the fact that you change the blades anyway every now and then.
BUT I would NOT use alcohol containing metanol (methyl alcohol) as mentioned in the beginning, since it is pretty toxic! There are other ways of denaturing alcohol with trace amounts of chemicals.
If there are not so many hairs in the cartridges, just add some alcohol without any other action!
Hi friends!
my formula is:
155ml Alcohol
5ml Glycerin
2ml Hi-Quality perfume with fresh smell(optional)
8ml distilled(or clear drinking)water
It works absolutely like original cartridges! but if there are still error alerts, try 3ml glycerin but 10ml distilled(or clear drinking)water.
Good luck!
copyrights by:A R A S H (looooooooool :)
I too have had a problem with getting a refilled cartridge to work. I put the cartridge into the base, the level light shows half full and when I push the start button, the level light goes to empty and the unit never starts. I actually have two base units and neither unit will run with my refilled cartridge. I’ve tried more fluid, less fluid, putting the cartridge back in, unplugging the base and nothing seems to help. Could it be the cartridge is somehow defective? Any more ideas on what I should do? Thanks for any suggestions.
(I hate to pay $6 for $.05 worth of alcohol and throw a big chunk of plastic away just to clean my razor – that’s why I’m going through this process.)
One of the things I failed to mention about glycerin is that it’s used extensively in sexual lubricant products and for condom lubrication. Therefore, one has to conclude that if it’s safe to use “down there”, it must be okay to use on something that comes in contact with your face.
Glycerin is a product of soap and biodesiel production. It is, in fact, extremely beneficial to the skin. It results from the chemical combination of alkalines with fatty oils (either animal or vegetable). Soap manufacturers remove a large portion of it and sell it to cosmetic companies for use in lotions, sexual lubricants, etc. That’s why I make my own soap rather that use the harsher mass produced varieties that have been robbed of glycerin’s beneficial properties. It’s easy to do and I get to choose my own fragrance.
looker:
I’m not trying to be argumentative so I hope you will consider this merely as a discussion.
The use of the term “oil” in essential oils is a misnomer. In most cases, there is no oil whatsover in “essential oil”. Therefore, it has limited value as a lubricant. An essential oil is a highly concentrated and potent extract from plants, leaves, flowers, roots, buds, twigs, rhizomes, heartwood, bark, resin, seeds and/or fruits. The essential oil is extracted via distillation using steam, water, and is some cases, using a solvent (flowers mostly). Alternatively it is extracted using a press. In the case of lemon and other citrus fruits, it is extracted via cold press of the rinds. Essential oils come in a variety of colors and consistencies from clear and watery to dark, thick and syrupy. Essential oils contain the true essence of the plant, are difficult to obtain, can be very expensive, are very concentrated and therefore should be used sparingly.
Fragrance oils can and usually do contain many different components ranging from natural essential oils to purely synthetic compounds. They are not nearly as concentrated as pure essential oils. Fragrance oils are used in making perfumes, colognes, body splashes, soaps, cosmetics, etc. Propylene glycol, vegetable oil, and mineral oil are the carriers most often used to dilute essential oils for fragrance oil production. Therefore, fragrance oil, depending on the carrier used may actually provide some value as a lubricant. However, I think they should not be depended upon for lubrication. Glycerin serves that purpose better.
I think I am correct in saying that the primary role either essential or fragrance oil plays is that of providing scent. They also have mood changing and antisceptic value. Consequently, primary consideration becomes one of preference and price. Essential oils are far more concentrated but also more expensive. Bottom line. Either one is fine.
usma1976, I think there is a big difference between “fragrance” oils and “essential” oils. The jist of the earlier conversation about adding lemon extract, etc……….was to insure that the mixture got both the lubricating and the fragrance quality of the lemon. Lemon “Fragrance” can be added to many inert ingredients which could still be harmful to your skin. I found some of the Braun Clean and Renew locally for a huge savings and will not try my Everclear and Remington solvent experiment for a while. The glycerin component sounds good…but think I would go with “essence” oil instead of any “fragrance” Thanks……….
For those that wish to add a lubricant to the denatured alcohol (I do), I think you’ll find that liquid glycerin is the answer. Unlike petroleum based oils, glyerin WILL enter into solution with alcohol. Solvents do not “eat oil”. Only microbes can do that. Instead, oil may not enter into solution with the solvent. Petroleum based lubricants and alcohol separate.
Glycerin is natural, non-toxic, and because it is safe for human consumption, is used to lubricate machinery for the food industry. I don’t know if it is true but I am told that Braun uses glycerin as a lubricant for its shavers. It is very inexpensive and can be found in any drugstore. For my replacement solution, I add 1 ml (20 drops) of glycerin to the denatured alcohol.
I use fragrance oils that may be purchased at any craft shop or online where soap and candle making supplies are sold. My preference is lemongrass sage and I add .5 ml (10 drops). You may wish to use less but I particularly enjoy the freshness of lemongrass. Two I haven’t yet tried but plan to are spearmint and peppermint.
One last thought that I am going to try after pricing those stupid Braun cartridges. How about buying ONE of the Remington refills…..then mixing a little of it into the Everclear and hopefully getting the lubricating and fragrance factor? Wish me luck..gonna try it tomorrow. Thanks, Looker
So, what is the final verdict? Can an expert please summerize? Thanks.
@srhardy: I had trouble like this after I knocked my unit onto the floor. I think it just means there’s air in the system. Try just hitting buttons again; take the cartridge out and put it back; take the shaver out and put it back; unplug the power and plug it back in — whatever it takes to tell the unit “Come on, try again.”
I have tried to refill my cart, but alas after emptying, washing & refilling it comes up as half full light, then when i hit the clean function it blinks red on all 3 led’s & stops! I have tried 3 times, has Braun put in some means of detecting genuine & refilled cart’s?
Any help apprediated
srhardy at gmail dot com
Sorry for any misunderstanding. The 5 cupfuls of lemon extract were for the whole liter bottle of Everclear. The oil is the best to go. I would add a little Lemon oil then see if it smells the way you like it. You can always add more.
1/8 teaspoon lemon oil for baking = 1 teaspoon lemon extract = 1 teaspoon zest
You are right. Use a drop or so of pure lemon or lime or orange oil instead of extract.
Make sure you get pure lemon oil not the olive oil with lemon added.
Lemon Oil
There are two types of Lemon Oil used for food.
The first is not actually a Lemon Oil; it is instead Olive Oil infused with Lemon. See Colonna Oils for one example of this.
The second is a very strong essence of Lemon, stronger than Lemon Extract, which is cold pressed from lemon rinds and mixed with a neutral oil. It is sold in very small bottles. Be very wary of using more than 1/4 teaspoon in any recipe. Lemon Oil has better flavour than Lemon Extract, but still doesn’t carry the real nuances that lemon zest would.
A well-known brand in North America is Furst-McNess.
Don’t confuse either type of Lemon Oil with the lemon oil that is a furniture polish.
Equivalents
1/8 teaspoon lemon oil for baking = 1 teaspoon lemon extract = 1 teaspoon zest
Also called: Essence de citron (French) Esencia del limón (Spanish)
@Riverunner: I like this idea very much! Everclear costs more per ounce, but it’s less toxic than SD-40. Plus, it comes in a recyclable glass bottle. (But I can’t imagine you’d need more than a *drop* of lemon extract in that little cartridge.)
Buy a bottle of “EVERCLEAR” grain alcohol (this is 95% alcohol or 190 proof available at most liquor stores)
Small bottle of lemon extract (available at any grocery store)
Directions:
Rinse out and shake out the empty cartridge a few times until there is no residue left
Air dry , or if you are in a hurry, use a hair dryer to dry the inside.
Use a measuring cup and pour approx 150 to 160 ml of alcohol (2/3 cup) into the empty cartridge
Add 5 caps of lemon extract (using the small bottle)
You now have a near duplicate mixture of the Braun Synchro cleaner. Works Great!
I found one with 99,9% of methyl alcohol. Is that fine?
Thanks!
nader: Different manufacturers have different formulations for denatured alcohol. The U.S. government does not have an absolute standard. The Braun mixture is *relatively* non-toxic — there’s no benzene in it, for example — and “Klean-Strip S-L-X” is very similar. As I mentioned, there are products out there called denatured alcohol that you definitely should *not* use to clean your shaver. You have to find one of the less-toxic products. If you avoid benzene, toluene and things like that, you’ll be using a product that is perfectly safe to put on your skin.
troy: I don’t know about other folks, but I’m still using my D.I.Y. method. It works just fine.
must be added “denatured alcohol” has composition:
90 parts by volume of alcohol mix , 9.5 parts by volume of wood naphtha ( methyle alcohol) and 0.5 parts by volume of crude pyridin
this is standard for “completely denatured alcohol”
other “denatured alcohol” have less methyle alcohol. I don,t know why compound of this company have 50% Ethyl alcohol & 50% Methanol
I think this composition is dangerous for skin & respiration & . . .
Hi yashwata
in shaver container is written
ingredient: “SD alcohol 40-B”
is it indicate :The denatured alcohol must be dilutedwith water 60%?
that is : 40% denatured alcohol & 60% water
Curious as well if anyone has any followups…
I’m heading to Home Depot shortly to look for the alcohol.
Thanks for this! Any more followups on how this has been working for those who have been doing it for a while?
Very cool. I am tired of getting ripped-off by Braun for the past several years… did everyone decide that there isn’t really any “lubricating oil” in the stuff?
Thanks, Yashwata! I have accumulated a couple of empty cartridges, purchased my alcohol and I’m ready to go. Glad to hear you and your razor survived the trial.
MissouriTraveler and CP: I’ve been using the SD alcohol for a while, and my face and shaver are fine.
Matic: I reckon your 97% ethyl alcohol would work fine too — unless the other 3% is something nasty.
Can anybody followup about this solution not having any adverse affect either to the shaver or to your skin?
Anybody try rubbing alcohol with any success?
I like this blog. I wonder if anything was wrong if i use 97% ethyl alcohol?
Ok, I just found this site today. So how’s it working out for the folks who’ve been using the home-made refills for a couple of months. Any problems? Thanks!
I’m not sure you can’t . . . the stuff has water in it, which denatured does not . . . but does that matter? Anyone?
Why can’t you just use rubbing alchohol?
This is great – I just bought the same stuff at Home Depot.
Now if you can only help me with those .50 Nespresso coffee pods…
Hey, I have been looking for a DIY refill on this – it’s just silly to buy these month after month. Blahblah – I can afford it, but would rather save my money and not spend foolishly and throw away all the plastic if it doesn’t need to be. It’s called being a responsible steward of what God has provided me.
I really appreciate this post and and will follow. I’ll try to find that alcohol and give it a run. Thanks again so much!
(bTw, I thought for sure I would find lots of hits when doing a google search for braun DIY refill, but got almost none, very strange).
if you cant afford $6 bucks a month then dont buy the braun that costs 250
Actually, it said so in the original documentation for the refill, which was in swedish (I’m in Sweden). It adviced against refill due to this. It could ofcourse be a way to keep people from refilling, but I don’t think so. Most people wouldn’t go through the hazzle of refilling.
Steve, I’m curious — how did you find out about the citrus lubricant being in there?
Actually, there is a lubricant in the cleaning fluid. It’s an oil based made from citrus fruit which is there for two reasons – one is to keep the head operation smooth and the other is to give it a good smell. So the perfume is not only perfume.
I’m pretty sure that it’s not dangerous to use clean alcohol for cleaning though, but if one is scared about that, a drop of olive oil or similar in the alcohol would take care of that.
Personally I haven’t yet tried to refill, but I will. Braun charges ridiculous for the refills, and it’s not very environmentally friendly either. Braun only has this kind of producs these days – you buy a cheap or semi-cheap unit (sometimes they are expensive too) and then you have to buy their refills expensively. This is true for toothbrushs, fever thermometers, flaussing machines and all other Braun stuff I’ve seen.
One can’t argue they make great products though. I’m 40 and got my first Braun by the age of 15. I still have the first one and it works fine, although I’m using the Synchro with cleaning station these days.
Thanks… I was sure this stupid thing could be refilled. I live on a fixed income which, unfortunately, forces me to have to give your solution a try. You’re welcome to email me in a month or so to ask wheter I can see my teeth without openng my mouth by then :) but I am certain this will work just fine. My, original, cartridge (the one packaged with the shaver) has a label that says: “SD – Alchohol 40 – B (Alcohol Denat.) Perfume Made in Ireland 5 331” and as you say: warns to be highly flamable and “may catch fire”.
The point to this response is to answer the gentleman inquiring about lubricant. As a lifelong HazMat driver/handler I can assure you that denatured alchohol ‘feels’, while wet, as though it is slippery, but it is not at all lubricated. The only other ingredient is the perfume, I’ll add a few drops of my favorite cologne (NOT AFTERSHAVE, which can contain a lubricant or lanolin, which would be devoured by the alcohol leaving only the perfume behind, anyway).
Thanks For The Post, there’s lots of tips, such as these, which poor people (such as myself) find absolutely invaluable. You need to know just how much it is appreciated…
Thanks Again
Good point. Thank you for this interesting information. I love my shaver but didn’t like the idea of forking over $6 a month for the cartridge.
Thank you again!
George, I have not seen mention of this. Denatured alcohol *dissolves* oils; I’m not sure how much sense it would make to mix any kind of lubricant into it. Try pouring a little of the factory-supplied stuff on your skin. It dries very quickly, and leaves nothing slippery behind. Right?
I thought I read that there is some sort of lubricant included in the clean and renew package. Is that not the case?
The Pulsonic gives me the most comfortable shave I’ve found. I can’t compare it the Panasonic, because I haven’t tried that one. The trimmer works fine for me. I don’t find the build quality worse than any others I’ve seen. The downside I didn’t expect is the cleaning unit, which is big, ugly, noisy (when it’s cleaning), and has a blue LED on the front that never goes out. Of course most people will keep the thing in their bathroom, where none of this matters much. But I can’t find a good spot in the there, so it’s in the bedroom. Hmm… maybe I can move it to one of the kids’ rooms.
Hi–I can’t decide between the Braun Pulsonic and the new 4-head Panasonic Lamdash (Japanese name). When I checked out the Pulsonic, the sideburn trimmer seemed difficult to pull out. Does the shaver need to be switched on to do this? And secondly, when I did get it partly out (at the store) it seemed fragile to the point of being tacky. Any comments?
Um — ah — yeah, it kind of is. But only because of a sort of weak link — the umbrella company, Kaz. I will have to give this more thought. Damn you, Xaq!
Isn’t Braun on your list of weapon makers to boycott? Oh well.